Third Falcon

"At Third Falcon, an occasionally exciting Fort Greene restaurant, the butter is stored in a heap at the end of the bar, as if it's the guest of honor. But the real star here is the brioche the butter is served with, which is less of a bread and more of a pound cake you can eat before dinner. photo credit: Justin Sisson photo credit: Justin Sisson photo credit: Justin Sisson This Northern French spot, with 14 bar seats and just a few tables, has a couple of dishes that are worth seeking out. The brioche, for example, and the shell-on shrimp tossed in a cinnamon-heavy curry blend. Beyond those hits, things get uneven. Duck arrives not-quite-crispy, and skate “ribs” taste like a stunt gone wrong. For an impromptu date night when you can’t get into nearby Sailor, this place will work in a pinch—as long as you follow a few key rules. Sit at the bar, stick to light snacking, and always order the brioche. Food Rundown photo credit: Justin Sisson Brioche a la Maison If only they sold whole loaves of this bread to-go. Crumbly and slightly sweet, it almost qualifies as cake. Ice it with some butter shipped in from Brittany. Greens of the Moment Somewhere between a side and a salad, these leafy greens are cooked in duck fat and topped with buckwheat grains that give the dish a slightly sandy texture. Not an essential order. Skate Ribs We get what they were going for here, and it almost works. This skate does, technically, fall off the bone (or cartilage), but the texture is overwhelmingly mushy. Crispy Livarot This mildly funky cheese is breaded, baked, and served with some incredibly juicy mushrooms. It's a great little snack to accompany a glass of wine—just be sure to order the brioche to go with it. Duck The sear could be better, and the wilted radicchio doesn’t add much, but this rather large duck breast is otherwise fine." - Bryan Kim

"What exactly is Northern French food? According to Third Falcon, a new spot in Fort Greene, it’s chilled langoustines, salad with duck fat dressing, and a big mound of butter served with brioche that reads like pound cake. Get that brioche, and enjoy it alongside a glass of wine, some curry-spiced shrimp, and a few seared scallops. There are also several large-format options—like sole meunière for two—but unless you’re prepared to spend $100 per person, the smaller plates are definitely the way to go." - will hartman, willa moore, neha talreja, molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, gabe bergado

"No matter how hard you squint, it’s hard to mistake Fort Greene for Normandy. Unless, that is, you’re squinting at Third Falcon, a seasonal restaurant inspired by northern France. It's from a chef who worked at EMP, Crown Shy, and Oxalis—and a menu that emphasises seafood and dairy. We’ve got our eyes on their whole chicken in crab butter, and chilled langoustines with sauce gribiche. " - will hartman

"What exactly is Northern French food? According to Third Falcon, a new spot in Fort Greene, it’s chilled langoustines, salad with duck fat dressing, and a big mound of butter served with brioche that reads like pound cake. Get that brioche, and enjoy it alongside a glass of wine, some curry-spiced shrimp, and a few seared scallops. There are also several large-format options—like sole meunière for two—but unless you’re prepared to spend $100 per person, the smaller plates are definitely the way to go." - molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, neha talreja, willa moore, will hartman, sonal shah

"Opening: September Zimmi’s is doing Southern French, but Third Falcon is going north. The Fort Greene restaurant, from a chef who worked at EMP, Crown Shy, and Oxalis, will have a menu inspired by Northern France, with an emphasis on seafood and dairy. Think hay-smoked shellfish and côte de veau with armagnac, cream, and apples." - bryan kim