Bardenas Reales

Spain’s Hidden Villages and Untamed Landscapes

"Heading south from Pamplona you enter the semi-desert of the Bardenas Reales, a 42,000-hectare UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of ochre mesas, dramatic ravines and wide plains where I often had most trails to myself; the park’s isolation and variety of textures — rippling clay, hardy flowers, shepherds and flocks — make wandering here especially rewarding. Key sights include the slender Castildetierra pinnacle (beautiful at dawn), the La Blanca Baja Loop (34km) for a full drive or bike tour, the Piskerra and El Rallón hike into the heart of the badlands, and vantage points such as Balcón de Pilatos and the quieter Cabezo de las Cortinillas; follow the Río Aragón corridor for greener, bird-rich stretches. Practical details I heed: stay in Tudela for lodgings and restaurants, visit in spring or early autumn to avoid extreme summer heat, and stock up on water, sunscreen and supplies because there are no services inside the park." - Matthew Kepnes