For All Things Good Bed-Stuy

Review: For All Things Good Rocks Bed-Stuy With (Mostly) Meat-Free Tacos | Eater NY

I discovered a molino-turned-daytime café in Bed-Stuy that opened in late August and feels both reverent about corn and unexpectedly food-forward: For All Things Good nixtamalizes and grinds its own masa, calls itself a boutique molino and tortilleria, and even sells a small tiendita with $3 avocados, $12 jars of salsa, $20 totes and a book called Nixtamal. The atole here is pure luxury — when hot it’s like drinking melted ice cream, cold it’s a frosty milkshake, with an earthy, popcorn-like aroma and a restrained sweetness that calms richer bites like a flauta; in short, atole simply tastes like atole. The kitchen rapidly learned to cook beyond masa basics, turning out memelas (oval griddled masa topped with avocado and egg), a trio of tetelas (chipotle-and-hibiscus or cheese-and-lime pockets), tightly balanced tlayuditas layered with coarse black beans, creamy Oaxacan cheese, salsa macha and meaty maitake, plus pozole and chilaquiles — and eventually a taco menu (mostly dinner-only) that remains vegetable-forward with a single meat option, green chorizo. Standouts include long bean tacos bright with morita chiles and a “mushroom two ways” taco that pairs butter-poached king oyster slices with a hen-of-the-woods paste on warm blue corn tortillas. Service is outdoor-only — patrons order at the counter and wait for food to be brought out — and the place can draw long brunch waits (up to 90 minutes), but the thoughtful focus on corn, sustainability, and vivid, nuanced flavors makes it worth the pilgrimage. - Ryan Sutton