Carmel Queen's Park
Mediterranean restaurant · Brent ·
Eastern Mediterranean-inspired all-day dining with refined, accessible dishes
Eastern Mediterranean-inspired all-day dining with refined, accessible dishes
"Lonsdale Road in Queen’s Park feels like it should be cobbled. It’s one of those little thoroughfare roads, with charming converted warehouses, microbreweries, artisanal garlic salespeople, and the like. It’s got the air of a Richard Curtis set—quaint and wholesome with a lot of Emma Thompson lookalikes—and in Carmel, it has an all-day restaurant that mirrors this warm charm. Mediterranean-inspired but—with its rust-chic tones, hanging foliage, and three varieties of negroni—completely at home in north west London. All-day restaurants, like Curtis films, tend to require a kind of consistent and inoffensive loveliness, and Carmel has got this down to a tee. It’s open early in the morning on weekends, when organised families and friends make themselves comfortable in the pastel banquettes and get acquainted with rose raspberry syrup, coconut, and peanut-topped French toast. During lunch it feels similarly laid-back: new parents at the counter watching their turmeric-roasted cauliflower do its thing over open flames, old parents sitting at the central shared table discussing whether heritage beets refers to the food or the soundtrack. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch The flare of Carmel’s food, whether you’re sharing small or big plates, is in the bits and bobs. The oozing confit garlic, the bubbles of char on their peerless flatbreads, the caramelised lime sitting beside the familiar joy of a sumptuous grilled chicken. There are multi-coloured beetroots with whipped feta and pistachio dukkah, turmeric-roasted cauliflower with tahini and nuts, a tender lamb shank shawarma with zhug and pickles. These aren’t new combinations—they’re reliable—and that’s why everything here is exceedingly pleasant, even if there is a noticeable lack of va-va-voom. Not every restaurant has to make an enormous statement, and there’s something comfortable and comforting about Carmel. If we were an NW6 local, we could imagine popping by mid-afternoon for a flatbread and a glass of something on the reg, alone or otherwise. But even if you’re not, it's very easy to imagine whiling away a morning or evening here. Pop down to Portobello Road, cosplay a rom-com, then wander up here for a mushroom and cheese-laden flatbread. It’s tried and tested enjoyment, with no need for Hugh Grant. Food Rundown Flatbreads The star of Carmel’s kitchen is undoubtedly their eight-inch sourdough flatbreads. They range from a za’atar-rubbed number served with a tahini dip and fermented chilli on the side, to a chanterelle mushroom and cheese creation. Our favourite of the lot is one of the simplest though: sweet cherry tomatoes and luscious confit garlic. These are better than what comes out of most pizza ovens across London. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Heritage Beets This is one of those kaleidoscopic plates that you can’t say no to. Chunks of pink beetroot, swirls of yellow, wedges of purple—all sweet and earthy. The combination of beetroot, whipped feta, and dukkah is a classic for a reason. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Charred Hispi Cabbage RIP the portobello mushroom. These days the cabbage and the cauliflower rule the vegetarian roost. This charred wedge of hispi cabbage is nice enough. It’s blackened and caramelised on the outside, and the labneh pool and the dukkah is another nice soft, cooling, and crunchy combination. It could do with a more generous seasoning of ras el hanout, though. photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch Slow-Grilled Saffron Chicken As far as plates of grilled half chicken on yoghurt goes, this is maybe the prettiest. Rose petals, eh? The meat is super juicy and you’ll want to rub that caramelised lime all over it. That said, the flavours are all lacking a little oomph. It’s perfectly nice. photo credit: Jake Missing" - Jake Missing
"The newest instalment from group behind Middle Eastern grill restaurants, Berber & Q and Shawarma Bar. Flavours of the Levant are woven into the fabric of the dishes without being beholden to them; modern European motifs work in tandem with spice, citrus, and heat with ease. Here the wine list proves an equal to the diverse food elements that underpin the space’s foundation. Exceptionally curated, from joyfully salty, leesy, nourishing whites of Alessandro Viola and Marco Merli, to the crystalline minerality of Alexandre Giquel’s Vouvray, to the ample and generous Jurassic wines of Julien Labet, to the odd and wonderful wines of Laureano Serres. In reds, delicacy and power take up equal space, from the lithe, nimble pineau d’aunis of Jean-Pierre Robinot to the structured and elegant Barbarescos of Olek Bondonio." - Nathalie Nelles
"A new, more grown-up all-day restaurant opening on Lonsdale Road in Queen’s Park that aims to shift fluidly from morning through night. Led by the same team behind the founders’ earlier projects, it nods to garden and vineyard themes as a symbol of renewal and retains an ethos of celebrating company and simply cooked food. The menu draws on the Levant and centers on a wood-fired oven with flatbreads as a cornerstone; mornings will include classic breakfasts such as shakshuka with confit tomato, avocado and tahini, while later dishes emphasize provenance (for example, Tamworth pork chops from Swaledale with confit garlic, preserved lemon and borlotti beans, or slow-grilled Sutton Hoo chicken with curry-pickled radicchio and an apricot glaze). Vegetarian options include sweet potato gnocchi with burnt aubergine, yoghurt and chilli butter, and grilled leeks with green chermoula and saffron aioli. The venue is pitched as more refined than the team’s casual outposts and will feature a wine-led program of roughly sixty selections, many low-intervention." - Adam Coghlan
Jared
Nóra K.
FG
Nick S.
Sezai A.
Mariana Santos C.
Imran P.
Jeremy B.
