Eric V.
Yelp
The Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide is a strange distinction. The Guide defines restaurants with this award as "friendly establishments that serve good food at a moderate price." Yet, at Eat Joy Food in Rowland Heights' Pearl Plaza, a table of six could, if they were feeling loose, drop a thousand dollars on dinner. Anyway, that needn't be the case.
On my only visit to this Taiwanese restaurant, I ordered the 3 Cup Casserole (with tofu, squid, pork intestine and chicken) and a dragon whisker salad alongside it. I did not know it when I ordered it, but the 3 cup casserole is a staple of the Taiwanese table. Not so much a casserole as one may be accustomed to think of that term as it applies to the American Midwest, but more so a wok-fried dish flavored with basil, garlic and ginger, and of course the 3 cups, containing sesame oil, rice wine (rice beer?) and soy sauce. The dragon whiskers look and sound much more interesting than they taste. While they kind of resemble the kind of whiskers you'd imagine a dragon to have, but as a side of greens they are far less interesting than the collards of the American South, and even the blanched bok choy with oyster sauce found at dim sum places provides a more exciting eating experience. They have the bitter sweet flavor you would imagine a green to have. They are wonderfully crisp and yet waxy at the same time. I'll say that their delicate flavor was covered up by the slivers of raw garlic in the dish.
The staff is friendly. On the mellow Monday night when I dined in, not only was I the only Westerner, but the only person without a connection to Taiwan. This speaks well to the amazing phenomenon occurring in the San Gabriel Valley. The level of regional Chinese cooking the 626 is unparalleled anywhere else in the country. We're very fortunate to live so close to all these places. And although I was the only non-Taiwanese in the dining room, I was catered to just as much as the group of rich kids who ordered snow crabs, sable, and other high end items.
That's another thing too. The characters in the dining room make this place interesting. I already told you about the table of Taiwanese trust fund babies. Next to them was a three-top featuring two business oriented, hard working, hard drinking, social climbing individuals and their bohemian artsy friend from college days. Next to me was a humble family of four. Everyone is welcome at Eat Joy Food.
Ps. A waitress walked passed my table carrying a dish to the aforementioned family of four. I won't tell you this dish had a bad smell, but I will say that it recalled, to me, two very distinct unpleasant smells. As I sat surrounded by the miasma of this dish, one breath recalled one of my daughter's old blowout diapers, and the next breath bore an uncanny resemblance to unwashed feminine parts. Curious, I inquired of this dish to the waitress, "what was the name of that?" Her response: "that called stinky tofu." Perfect. Why mince words. I need to go back soon and order the stinky tofu.