Ingredient-driven dishes evoking the earth, natural wines
71 Rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011 Paris, France Get directions
€100+
"If you can’t get into Septime—which, unless you know someone, is almost certainly the case—then book a table at this new tasting menu spot instead. It’s in a different part of the same restaurant-packed 11th arrondissement, but has a similar look and feel: there are exposed stone, wooden wingback chairs, and hip-hop playing overhead. The ground floor tables look down into the wine cave, but if you come during the day, the best place to sit is upstairs under the skylights. Fish is the focus for the €79, five-course lunch, and €109, eight-course dinner, where you’ll find things like Normandy scallops fermented in tomato sauce, smoked eel with spinach and sage, and a red mullet in a bouillabaisse dressing. Pace yourself, because if the simple-sounding chocolate mousse is still on the menu for dessert, it’s anything but." - sara lieberman, lindsey tramuta, lindsey tramuta, lindsey tramuta, lindsey tramuta, lindsey tramuta, lindsey tramuta, lindsey tramuta, sara lieberman, sara lieberman, sara lieberman, lindsey tramuta, sara lieberman
"Named for the smell that rises from freshly ploughed or wet soil, this new star restaurant hints at the ‘natural’ cuisine that Chef Maxime Bouttier's restaurant has in store for diners. Originally from the Sarthe ‘département’ in northwestern France, where he used to hurry after school to watch the cows being milked, he serves cow udders at his trendy restaurant in the 11th arrondissement. This offal is cooked in a seaweed broth before being pan-fried in butter, lightly grilled on the barbecue, placed on a tartare of seaweed, and topped with a little caviar and finished with two sauces. A creative dish, emblematic of a chef with a strong personality." - Le Guide MICHELIN
"Geosmin is the wonderful aroma that rises from freshly ploughed or wet soil. Maxime Bouttier's restaurant, in the Oberkampf area of Paris, is located in a two-storey townhouse that has the distinctive feel and decor of the eastern districts of Paris. Hailing from France's Sarthedépartement, this young chef organises his distinctive, pared-back dishes into a tasting menu that follows the seasons and steers clear of the trap of over-complexity. The wine list will certainly pique your interest with its natural and biodynamic wines, as well as fine Italian, Spanish and Austrian labels." - Michelin Inspector
"Young chef Maxime Bouttier first got noticed for his cooking at Mensae in the arty Belleville district of northeastern Paris. Now he’s gone out on his own with a stylish restaurant in a loft-like white duplex in a former textile factory in the 11th. At Géosmine (“odor of the soil,” as in a freshly plowed field), Bouttier works to enunciate the natural flavors and textures of produce. On a recent menu, artichokes barigoule (braised in white wine and herbs) were wrapped in fine ribbons of lardo di Colonnata (fatback) to create a contrast of earthy tastes and textures, while green asparagus was slathered with pistachio cream and chickweed to similar effect. Don’t miss the baked-to-order cake of chocolate, vanilla, praline, and fleur de sel. Located in the 11th arrondissement. Know before you go: At dinner, Géosmine serves a prix fixe menu, while lunch is a la carte." - Alexander Lobrano
"If you can’t get into Septime—which, unless you know someone, is almost certainly the case—then book a table at this new tasting menu spot instead. It’s in a different part of the same restaurant-packed 11th arrondissement, but has a similar look and feel: there are exposed stone, wooden wingback chairs, and hip-hop playing overhead. The ground floor tables look down into the wine cave, but if you come during the day, the best place to sit is upstairs under the skylights. Fish is the focus for the €79, five-course lunch, and €109, eight-course dinner, where you’ll find things like Normandy scallops fermented in tomato sauce, smoked eel with spinach and sage, and a red mullet in a bouillabaisse dressing. Pace yourself, because if the simple-sounding chocolate mousse is still on the menu for dessert, it’s anything but." - sara lieberman, lindsey tramuta