Steph C.
Yelp
Dim sum is one thing that can be done very well for reasonably cheap, so I entered Hakkasan's luxurious space afraid we would be shelling out for the chic flower arrangements, the lush seating, and the seductive ambience. My fears found themselves unfounded - yes, Hakkasan presented its food with impressive, elegant trappings, but these were just a gorgeous frame worthy of presenting the attractive and phenomenally delicious dim sum.
I'm going to get two brief complaints out of the way first. 1. No pictures allowed, and that's company policy. 2. Our waitress seemed a bit impatient at first, as we were first-timers who didn't necessarily know how much to order or how this new-fangled cartless dim sum worked. She answered our questions, but seemed a little surly about it. She did warm up to us quickly, though, and service was generally unproblematic and even friendly at times.
Now, the food. We were presented with a la carte and dim sum menus, and went all dim sum, with one order of vegetarian dim sum from the a la carte menu. We started with this vegetarian dim sum platter, which came with two pieces each of crystal dumpling, vegetable shumai, yam bean and shiitake dumpling, and vegetable beancurd roll. We proceeded with the steamed king crab noodle wrap, the chinese chive dumpling with prawn and crabmeat, the seafood dumpling consomme, the scallop shumai with tobiko caviar, the char sui bun, and an order of the Singapore vermicelli with prawn and squid.
Each dim sum order came in its own little bamboo container or ceramic bowl, and everything looked beautiful - dumpling skins in deep honeydew green, glistening scallop topped with jewel-like tobiko, burgundy pork peeking out of white clouds bursting quietly at the seams...the presentation was a cut above any dim sum I'd ever seen before.
Incredibly, it tasted even better. Every last bit of dim sum was cooked gently to unveil bold flavors and toothsome textures. The dumpling skins were impossibly good, the consomme soothing and deeply aromatic, the Singapore noodles fluffy and wonderful laced with firm bits of seafood. Not one bite fell short of eye-opening, and Hakkasan unlocked a new level of dim sum in my culinary universe.
We should have stopped there, but curiosity got the better of us and we tried the tapioca pearl pudding, which came with little snatches of vanilla panna cotta, poached banana, passion fruit sorbet, and caramel popcorn. I prefer the humbler version of this dessert offered at lower-end dim sum places. This one tried too hard and the result was a messy hodge-podge of clashing and cluttering flavors. The rest of the meal was so delightful that I'm going to forget this final bit ever happened.
Hakkasan was a revelation. In one meal - and a lunch, at that - I obtained a new lens by which to judge dim sum. My experience wasn't perfect, but the core of it was, and it is upsetting that I can't go back and repeat it any time soon.
Also, the bathrooms are REALLY COOL.