Mark T.
Yelp
Quite a while back on here, I talked about Hong Kong Cafe, a stellar example of a Cha Chaan Teng (tea eatery or "Hong Kong-style diner") in Denver. And now, it's my great pleasure to expound on another standout in this category, Happy Cafe on South Federal.
Now, I must stress before I even begin - although they are technically both Cha Chaan Tengs, the dishes you will find at Happy Cafe bear only a very slight resemblance to the ones you will see at Hong Kong Cafe; the latter features both Chinese and Western-style offerings while the former eschews European eats (for the most part) in favor of specifically Sinitic specialties. To start, how about a few sticks of Zha Xian Nai (fried milk custard, often served with a salty/savory sauce to counteract its slight sweetness)? Or, have a taste or two of Jin Sha Nan Gua. Literally "golden sand southern gourd", this treat consists of chunks of fried pumpkin in a batter made from salted mashed egg yolks. And I'm betting you'll just love it. Steamed rice-flour rolls are a very popular Chinese starter, and HC brings you a version topped with a tantalizing bean/peanut sauce. Try it, you'll like it! But let's shift now to main courses, which I am sure you're equally curious about.
Gu Fa Yang Nan Bao, or "ancient method lamb brisket pot", does indeed combine this tasty sheep part with mushrooms and toothsome tofu skin. And in this case, the old saying "the sum is greater than its parts", most assuredly holds true. "Ooh, olive mustard - what's that?", I hear you inquire. This condiment, originating in the area around the southeastern city of Chaozhou, expertly blends chopped mustard leaves with bits of plump green olive - and you can sample its elegance in a stirfry with pork and crisp green beans. Happy Cafe also brings you duck or chicken cooked in the classic Taiwanese "San Bei" or "three-cup" format - so named because the most traditional recipes call for one cup each of soy sauce, sesame oil, and Mijiu (Chinese culinary rice wine) - why not have a bit of both birds? But really, you can spend weeks and weeks trying the bevy of goods here at HC, and still not scratch the scintillating surface - so hurry up and check them out already, won't you?