Hoexter's
New American restaurant · Upper East Side
174 E 82nd St, New York, NY 10028
Highlights
Gorgonzola garlic bread, smashburgers, cocktails in retro UES
Gorgonzola garlic bread, smashburgers, cocktails in retro UES
"Remember this revamped American bistro from the Flex Mussels team for your next easy dinner featuring plump shrimp cocktail, roast chicken, and eavesdropping on neighborhood gossip. Each of the three dining areas has a slightly different feel. If you're with a friend, sit in the slightly loungey middle room. When you're shepherding out-of-towners around the neighborhood, the back room with Victorian stars and moons makes a nice backdrop for dinner after a day of museums and park tourism." - sonal shah, willa moore, will hartman, neha talreja
"One of our favorite things about this American restaurant on the Upper East Side is their back room, which looks like a crystal-chandeliered Victorian-era abode. Take over the whole back space and eat gorgonzola garlic bread, steamed artichokes, and roasted duck breast with gooseberries." - neha talreja, bryan kim, hannah albertine, will hartman
"This Upper East Side revival comes from Alexandra Shapiro who has reopened the restaurant her father originally helped open in the 1970s. Look for dishes like gorgonzola garlic bread, chopped salad, a smash cheeseburger, and splurges like caviar and potato chips. The room is retro with details like a black-and-white penny tile floor and tartan wallpaper, with pine, burgundy, and midnight accents." - Melissa McCart
"Flex Mussels owner Alexandra Shapiro opened her family’s restaurant Hoexters — with its generous seating and retro design elements — around the corner from the original location that closed in the mid-1980s. The menu features French onion soup, Caesar salad, fried calamari, shrimp cocktail, and clams piccata among starters, and meat-centric mains like a half-chicken, a whole branzino, stuffed shells, and pork Milanese. But it’s the gorgonzola garlic bread from the original menu that’s been the bestseller so far." - Melissa McCart
"Hoexter’s is a temple to all things old-school Upper East Side. The plates have the restaurant’s name on them, servers take your order with a pen and paper, and there’s a section of the menu dedicated to digestifs. The owners, who are also behind Flex Mussels, revived their family's ’70s-era Hoexter’s Market, so these time machine nods feel appropriate as opposed to theatrical. And though the American bistro food isn’t pushing any boundaries, the classic experience won’t let you down when you want to talk smack with a neighbor over some French onion soup. It's the sort of place that might have gotten raves in a monthly neighborhood bulletin, dizzy with the recent discovery of cooking cheeseburgers by smashing them into a griddle. The menu is full of hits from an earlier era, which should be a relief to anyone sick of hearing about gels or emulsions. Once in awhile a dish really works—a seared duck breast brings up warm memories of dinners with grandparents—but for the most part, things like roasted half-chicken with spaetzle and oyster mushrooms, or Faroe Islands salmon, feel paint-by-the-numbers. Maybe that's by design. Certainly, your food won’t distract you from your tablemate's immaculate gossip. photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff photo credit: Alex Staniloff As a social club, Hoexter's has its charms. Up front, there’s a lively bar where people drink martinis. The middle area is loungier, with flannel jacket wallpaper, and the back dining room is our pick for a meal, with a skylight and posh Victorian stars and moons on the walls. Here, cocktails and 82nd Street gossip flow like water, and servers squeegee scraps off the white tablecloths, pretending they’re not listening. Unlike most things at Hoexter's, the prices have kept up with the times. Depending on your choice of fish eggs, you could spend $250 on just caviar and potato chips. We'd stick to heartier options, like the pungent and indulgent gorgonzola garlic bread ($18), or a citrusy whole branzino ($44). Even if the best thing about the food here is that it's comforting, Hoexter's is a great spot to celebrate the end of a hard week, or meet up with your family before going to a cocktail party in the neighborhood. If you have dirt to dish, bring a friend and talk loudly. Chances are, the news will spread back to whoever you want to hear it. Food Rundown photo credit: Alex Staniloff Gorgonzola Garlic Bread You’ll smell this as soon as you walk into the dining room at Hoexter’s, because there’s generally one on every table. If you like blue cheese, you’ll be into this, but it is a little on the soggy side. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Steamed Artichoke Simple, and an excellent vehicle for mayonnaise and lemon. It’ll require some work, but it’s worth ordering if you like eating with your hands. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Shrimp Cocktail Nothing out of the ordinary, but a pretty dish that’ll remind you of how much you love shrimp cocktail. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Duck Breast Our favorite of the main dishes. Beautifully seared duck breast, tart gooseberries, and crispy fingerling potatoes. This is the kind of dish that hits us right in the memberberries. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Roasted Half Chicken A perfectly fine dish, but it feels a bit too much like very good home cooking for a spendy night out. The best part of this were the roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms soaked in chicken juices. photo credit: Alex Staniloff Lemon Tart This dessert was equal parts ooey-gooey and puckeringly tart, and for that, we love it. If you have room for dessert, this should be the one you choose." - Will Hartman
