MJ Chung
Google
Walking into Howoo felt akin to the awe I experienced at the Getty Center in LA—an architectural masterpiece made possible by a visionary with the means to bring it to life. Here, a similar synergy between ambition and execution has given rise to one of the most stunning and refined dining spaces dedicated to Korean barbecue.
A culmination of years of dining at renowned establishments like Jungsik, my Korean barbecue journey found its apex at Howoo. This restaurant isn’t merely another contender in the crowded K-Town BBQ scene—it is its pinnacle. Howoo redefines what Korean barbecue can be, elevating it to a level of sophistication previously unseen.
The space is a seamless blend of tradition and modernity. Traditional Korean roof tiles form a rhythmic pattern reminiscent of Vienna’s iconic motifs, grounding the space while maintaining an airy openness. The partitions balance intimacy and openness, while warm, understated lighting enhances the sense of understated luxury.
Each table is equipped with a state-of-the-art ventilation system, ensuring that despite a packed house, not a wisp of smoke nor an overpowering scent lingers in the air. This is barbecue reimagined—where every detail is meticulously considered to create an experience of pure culinary indulgence.
Our party of six began the evening with a selection of craft cocktails, with the standouts being the Ginseng and Omija. The ginseng cocktail was an exquisite balance of bitterness and light herbal notes, while the omija drink—topped with a delicate egg white foam—was a masterful reinterpretation of traditional Korean flavors.
We indulged in the full range of appetizers, each designed to invigorate the palate and pave the way for the main event: the Prime Package Grand for Six.
The first three cuts of meat were paired with a surprisingly playful Pinot Noir. It's lighter, more vibrant persona, beautifully complementing the smoky, umami-rich flavors of the grill. The aged ribeye—wet-aged to perfection—was a testament to both ingredient quality and the masterful techniques of the grill chefs, bursting with nutty, umami-laden depth.
As the meal progressed, the Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Striploin arrived—a revelation. Infused with the delicate fragrance of yuzu, each bite melted effortlessly on the tongue. When paired with the house-made wasabi and pickled wild mountain garlic sauce, it achieved an almost ethereal harmony of flavors. At this stage, a deeper, more contemplative California Cabernet Sauvignon joined the table, mirroring the night’s progression into something richer and more indulgent.
At about 70% into our meal, curiosity led us on a brief tour of the restaurant. The restrooms—each uniquely inspired by elements of nature—reflected the same thoughtful craftsmanship seen throughout the establishment. A glance upward revealed six private dining rooms, reminiscent of the sky rooms at New York’s famed Daniel, offering an exclusive vantage point over the expansive first-floor dining area. A forthcoming tofu house, set to open in March 2025, is seamlessly connected to the main restaurant, promising an even more intricate exploration of Korean culinary traditions.
Even down to the glassware, Howoo spares no expense, opting for Reidel—the pinnacle of fine wine glass craftsmanship. It’s a clear statement that excellence here extends beyond the meat itself; it is an all-encompassing dedication to the art of dining.
Refined yet unpretentious, Howoo is the definitive Korean barbecue experience in New York.
If there’s ever a gathering centered around premium meats, this is the destination. And next time, I’ll be taking my seat at the bar—a space exuding an intimate charm, perfect for a solo indulgence or a quiet conversation over beautifully grilled perfection.
