La Brujeria

"La Brujeria (“the witchery) is an amazing taqueria in the back of a Jersey City gas station. It opened a year ago, owned by Mexico City native Roberto Islas, who is also the chef. It was the first place in the metropolitan area to make birria out of lamb rather than beef (though we’re still waiting for real goat birria to appear). The consomé is one of the darkest and richest in town, though the tortillas are not dipped. The shredded meat is intensely flavorful, and gas prices are cheap, too, in case you want to fill up." - Robert Sietsema

"A Mexican restaurant appeared in the back of a gas station on bustling Grand Street, a largely industrial neighborhood of warehouses and factories. The owner and chef is Mexico City native Roberto Islas, and the menu at this small spot decorated with huge art murals on Mexican themes is a compendium of dishes found locallly, from tacos, tortas, and quesadillas to more ambitious creations like mixiotes. And this is one of the few places I know of to offer lamb birria, though not always available." - Robert Sietsema

"This new hot-pink taqueria attached to a gas station in Jersey City is the only place in the area that I know of to offer lamb birria, which is a flavor revelation. But an equally impressive use of lamb is in mixiotes, an ancient dish that may have originated in Hidalgo that involves marinating mutton or rabbit in guajillo chiles, garlic, and vinegar and wrapping it in a parchment derived from the maguey cactus. At La Brujeria (“witchcraft”), lamb is instead wrapped in aluminum foil and steamed in beer and dried red chiles. The result is an almost surreal tenderness. Served with rice and pinto beans." - Robert Sietsema