"This new hot-pink taqueria attached to a gas station in Jersey City is the only place in the area that I know of to offer lamb birria, which is a flavor revelation. But an equally impressive use of lamb is in mixiotes, an ancient dish that may have originated in Hidalgo that involves marinating mutton or rabbit in guajillo chiles, garlic, and vinegar and wrapping it in a parchment derived from the maguey cactus. At La Brujeria (“witchcraft”), lamb is instead wrapped in aluminum foil and steamed in beer and dried red chiles. The result is an almost surreal tenderness. Served with rice and pinto beans." - Robert Sietsema