Molly T.
Yelp
Leon's is a bright and beautiful new restaurant just below Union Square serving approachable Italian food with an impressive array of beverage options. The space itself is grand with high ceilings and beautiful fixtures and the staff (at least the folks we interacted with) are as bright and energetic as the vibes. While none of the food we tried really wowed us, it was solid across the board and we particularly enjoyed the mains.
Came here around 8:45 on a Saturday night as a party of two. It was a bad weather night of the wintry mix variety, so I was impressed to see so many people (including us) making the trek to dine at a relatively new spot (it doesn't hurt that Leon's is very close to Union Square so is easily accessible). Upon sitting down, I was quickly sucked into the drink menu, which consists of aperitifs (ie spritzes and negronis) "icebox" drinks, and signatures. Just about everything looks fantastic, so good luck deliberating. I told our server that the Olive Oil Martini (Wodka Vodka, Cocchi Secco, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Salt) looked cool and that I had tried and loved similar preparations in the past that were made with gin. I also mentioned that I do not enjoy vodka in any capacity, even in a martini, but that I was open to it, offering him the floor to make his pitch. Our server leapt into action at this opportunity, emphatically stating he, like me, avoids vodka at all times, but that this drink was a true outlier and his favorite on the entire cocktail menu. I'm always open to having my mind changed (at least when it comes to food/bev preferences), so I gave it a shot.
What did I think? Well, when I tell you that I never order two of the same cocktail in a row, I truly, really, REALLY mean never -- ask anyone who has ever known me and gone out with me in any capacity. So when I looked over the menu after having my first Olive Oil Martini and I considered the food we had on the way, nothing else -- not even the Negonis, which are always my other go-tos -- had the same dazzle and allure as a second Olive Oil Martini. I shocked myself here, not only because this is generally something I, on principle, absolutely don't do, but because this was a freaking VODKA martini. So this was a double exception I never saw coming.
Food-wise, we mainly stuck with seafood and veggies, though the pasta dishes did look enticing. We ordered a mix of apps and mains which ranged from decent to very good -- nothing bad, nothing outstanding. Eats, below:
Escarole Salad, Toasted Sesame & Anchovy: A-
Our server warned us that there were full anchovies in this salad, which is their take on a Caesar. This did not dissuade me but rather encouraged me to order it, while my partner was less enthused. He ended up liking the anchovies more than he expected (this happens often with him and tinned fish) but we both agreed that the salad overall was a bit on the salty side and presented in a way that left much to be desired. That said, it was still solid and the escarole was as fresh and delicious as it should be this time of year.
Octopus Salad, Beans & Mussels Escabeche: B+
Our server raved about this dish and given how well his martini testimony worked, we figured it could be a fun and unique dish. Overall, the mussels in particular were super delicious, while the baby octopus was a bit of a letdown. Flavor and texture-wise this dish as a whole felt a bit uninspired outside of the mussels, but not necessarily bad.
Tuna Carpaccio with Capers & Crispy Shallots: A-
This dish was almost an A but would've needed a bit more flavor to push it over the edge. Still, the fish was fresh and yummy and the shallots added a nice crunch.
Filet of Branzino al Leon w/ Lemon Potatoes, Sicilian Capers & Arugula Salad: A-
Another solid dish. The fish was executed nicely but overall was under seasoned, while the potatoes were fantastic. I ended up pairing the salad and fish together for each bite, which definitely elevated the dish for me.
Grilled Lamb Misto w/ Arrosticini Skewers, Shoulder Roast & Kofta: A-/A
I think this is the second time I've had a lamb three-ways dish, and despite the fact that I sometimes go back and forth on lamb, this one was delicious (it was more my speed because I don't love the gaminess of a lamb chop but this preparation featured more ground lamb which was yummy and seasoned well). The reason for the A-/A is that it was overall a little greasy for my liking, but everything else was there.