Jea Kim
Google
Maybe I haven’t had good Italian food in a while or maybe it’s because it’s the first contemporary Italian spot I’ve tried in the North End. I don’t know, but this was the best Italian meal I’ve had so far this year.
No frutti di mare, burrata, calamari, or even pizza. Very unusual for a North End restaurant. But it felt like they were skipping these and just doing what they’re confident in. We dropped in for an early dinner last week, and the restaurant was surprisingly empty. Snagged a table by the open window, and service was immaculate from start to finish. But more importantly, the food really delivered.
We started with the Spanish Octopus, which came highly recommended. Ridiculously tender, almost melt-in-your-mouth, and nicely balanced with the bright acidity of sweet baby peppers. Even the fingerling potatoes were perfectly soft and seasoned.
Then the pasta. Personally I prefer pasta that doesn’t rely on too much sauce for flavors. And they nailed it. For me, it was Caserecce > Chitarra > Agnolotti.
Spicy Shrimp Caserecce was a classic Southern Italian dish that I love. That spicy piennolo oil did its magic, and here they dialed down on acidity. Instead topped it with bits of olives to give an occasional tangy pop. Bold but clean, with just the right amount of heat.
In Chitarra, they only used pork ragu, no tomato sauce. And the natural pork flavors were still really well-integrated into chitarra. Felt like it had been simmered in pork broth. Without any sauce, it did get dry fairly quickly, but it still worked for me. Reminded me of pork gukbap (Korean soup). Spring Pea Agnolotti had a good integration of spring flavors. Minty, slightly earthy, and cheesy. Personally not a huge fan of mint, so I didn’t enjoy it as much, but my friend did.
For the entrée, we went for the Soft Shell Crab, which wasn’t something you’d expect to find on the entrée section in an elevated casual setting, let alone fine dining. They originally had cape fluke, but swapped to soft shell crabs. The crab was flattened before being fried, which gave it an even texture and made it easier to eat. More importantly, all the good stuff was concentrated in the center, and those natural crab flavors paired wonderfully with the tangy sauce and capers. The leg parts had relatively thick batter, which gave that lovely toasty aroma.
Based on the meal overall, we expected the Basil Panna cotta to hit like the one we had at Tonino. Unfortunately, not as good. Instead of sprinkling the basil sugar on top, they torched it on top (like on a creme brûlée). Panna cotta itself was also not as light. Still a solid dessert.
Highly recommend giving them a try if you want something a little different from the usual North End lineup.