MichelinStarsChallenge R
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#129 in my challenge of trying every Michelin Stars in Paris (follow me for all the reviews and updates, I’ve also tried every 3 stars in France, and more). This is a new 2023 star.
North wind.
So what’s interesting here?
Success and association
If you’re a foreigner (or just don’t watch TV like me), you most likely don’t know that Mallory Gabsi is quite famous. Famous enough that his absence saddened greatly the table next to us. I’m always wary about Tv show contestants. But I’ve been proven wrong nearly systematically, with the likes of Victor Mercier or Mori Sacko (and I’m sure there’s more that I don’t realize). It just has an impact on the crowd, that’s usually how I perceive it. And of course, after if I read articles (I try to avoid any information before, if I can). Why am I saying that? Because the press loves him. Again, they are not my crowd, I only ask about other chefs to the chefs., the waiters etc… I’m saying that because there are very high expectations on him and I’m not sure it’s helping. It may even push him in over-stressing some of his skills. But what does it mean for you? He has an undeniable talent for association. He uses it to push a main note. A bit like a piano chord. And for that he has in his keyboard some personal touches (spices, roasted, etc..). It does give him a particular tone, in that chord he’s playing. The results are dishes with a very clear taste and even some northern tone. Still, I’m looking forward to see next year how this will develop in a clear character.
I love the design, just like I loved the one from Omar Dhiab, as they are in the same vein. A tad nostalgic but definitely modern. Although I recognize that the later was more aligned with the cuisine. Here, there’s less nostalgia, and it’s more to be in tuned with today esthetics.
By the way, the crowd was quite young, with friends, coworkers, some gastro-curious (I went soon after the star was announced).
A well deserved star with his tone. I’m curious to see how it will grow.