Manchamanteles
Mexican restaurant · Bucktown ·
Specializes in mole sauces, wood-fired meats, and regional Mexican plates.
Specializes in mole sauces, wood-fired meats, and regional Mexican plates.
"With papel picado hanging from the ceiling and sombreros lining the wall, it’d be easy to write this off as cheesy, but the food makes clear there’s an expert at the helm. Chef Geno Bahena’s kitchen specializes in mole—Manchamanteles’s version uses 28 ingredients—and the silky mole negro Oaxaqueño con pavo sets a slow-braised smoked turkey drumstick swimming in a sauce that volleys between sweet chocolate notes and smoky spices; using turkey, indigenous to Oaxaca and popular in the southern Mexican states, feels especially apt in fall and shows Bahena’s regional savvy. Start with the calabaza en tacha tostada: slow-cooked, caramelized pumpkin with piloncillo, cinnamon, and orange zest meets tart queso fresco on a crunchy tostada with a drizzle of spicy salsa macha. The atole had sold out during my visit, but the server surprised me with a chocolate tamal wrapped in a corn husk and topped with vanilla ice cream; its smooth, creamy texture was reminiscent of a lava cake, and I scraped the shell, left wanting more. The room evokes a bygone era of Mexican cuisine—waiters dressed like charros and decor seemingly aimed at Americans eager to relive a beach vacation—yet during peak hours it’s busy but never packed, the massive space makes reservations unnecessary, and the kind, attentive staff keeps service steady and unrushed while Bahena roams the dining room greeting guests. The kitchen’s seasonal cooking is where it truly shines, and it deserves vegetarian fans for its thoughtful use of squash, avocado, and carrots." - Ximena N. Beltran Quan Kiu
"This Mexican restaurant is from the chef behind Mis Moles, so it’s not surprising that the mole is fantastic, like the nutty green version made with pumpkin seeds, or the smoky and complex 29-ingredient black variety that’s paired with lamb chops. There are also some great non-mole dishes like tender cochinita pibil served with pillowy housemade tortillas and a delicious, blazingly spicy habanero sauce. Manchamanteles is also absolutely massive, with a colorful indoor space that’s decked out in papel picado, and a sprawling patio. So even if you’re tasked with finding a place for 12 people two hours before dinner, chances are you’ll easily fit here." - john ringor, adrian kane, nick allen
"In Bucktown, this low-key Mexican restaurant from veteran Chicago chef Geno Bahena is ideal for when you just want to eat. Finding spaces for big groups is hard, but it’s not a problem fitting a large group on a whim. Plus the moles are pretty hard to beat." - Sam Nelson
"On a gray and rainy day, take the brood to Manchamenteles in Logan Square. The wood-fire meats at this large, lively Mexican restaurant are perfectly cooked, but we like how colorful the place is, including the ceiling that’s painted with blue skies. Pair the complex mole negro or tender pork shoulder with a generously poured margarita while the little ones work through their kid’s menu quesadillas and point at decor that’s far more stimulating than an iPad." - adrian kane, nick allen
"Monica Eng praises the chef in Logan Square, saying that "Geno Bahena is cranking out the most delicious moles in the city. He has taken on a huge space (and challenge) in the old Lazo’s building but I hope the draw of his sauces keeps people coming back." — Monica Eng" - Ashok Selvam