For a Mexican Fall Feast, Head to Manchamanteles in Bucktown | Eater Chicago

"With papel picado hanging from the ceiling and sombreros lining the wall, it’d be easy to write this off as cheesy, but the food makes clear there’s an expert at the helm. Chef Geno Bahena’s kitchen specializes in mole—Manchamanteles’s version uses 28 ingredients—and the silky mole negro Oaxaqueño con pavo sets a slow-braised smoked turkey drumstick swimming in a sauce that volleys between sweet chocolate notes and smoky spices; using turkey, indigenous to Oaxaca and popular in the southern Mexican states, feels especially apt in fall and shows Bahena’s regional savvy. Start with the calabaza en tacha tostada: slow-cooked, caramelized pumpkin with piloncillo, cinnamon, and orange zest meets tart queso fresco on a crunchy tostada with a drizzle of spicy salsa macha. The atole had sold out during my visit, but the server surprised me with a chocolate tamal wrapped in a corn husk and topped with vanilla ice cream; its smooth, creamy texture was reminiscent of a lava cake, and I scraped the shell, left wanting more. The room evokes a bygone era of Mexican cuisine—waiters dressed like charros and decor seemingly aimed at Americans eager to relive a beach vacation—yet during peak hours it’s busy but never packed, the massive space makes reservations unnecessary, and the kind, attentive staff keeps service steady and unrushed while Bahena roams the dining room greeting guests. The kitchen’s seasonal cooking is where it truly shines, and it deserves vegetarian fans for its thoughtful use of squash, avocado, and carrots." - Ximena N. Beltran Quan Kiu