D Y.
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The first thing you notice about NM's hoi tod is that it's visibly different from others. Most noticeably, the oysters aren't mixed in with the omelette portion and fried together en masse but served separately on one side. Even more astonishing is the generous amount of oyster in comparison to the omelette portion! Binding the oysters together is a viscous syrup of starchy goodness that enhances the taste and texture of the oysters .
Unlike other iterations of hoi tod in Thailand where a web like crust of tapioca starch is used to add the familiar crunch, this hoi tod gets it's crispiness from fried egg itself (with some batter of unknown origin mixed in no doubt). The beauty of serving the oysters separately from the crisped egg portion is that you can mix them in whatever proportion that suits your personal palate. Regardless the mixture, the soft oysters of the orh luak contrast wonderfully with the crispy edges of the egg omelette. The orh suan version relies less on this contrast of soft with crispy. The egg omelette becomes the centerpiece of the dish, not the oyster.
Interestingly, this is one of the few places I've been to that distinguish between the orh luak and orh suan versions of oyster omelette, both of which are on the menu. Unsurprising given the large Teochew Chinese diaspora, Thailand being one of the main endpoints of that diaspora and making Bangkok's Chinatown the largest in South east Asia !
Orh luak or orh suan, which is better ? That would depend on personal preference. I tried both and couldn't say which I like more. In fact I liked them both so much I came 2 days in a row ! On a practical side note, anything larger than a medium should be ordered for sharing only. In fact, a medium size is appropriate only for people with big appetites. On the few times that I've visited, there's been a queue too so please be prepared to wait a short while.