Neo
Personal chef service · Montrose ·
Intimate omakase inside boutique, dry-aged fish, Mexican-Japanese fusion
Intimate omakase inside boutique, dry-aged fish, Mexican-Japanese fusion
"The 18-course omakase at the tiny restaurant Neo HTX is one of Houston’s best sushi experiences. Even though it all happens in the back of a Montrose townhouse turned couture clothing store, you stop caring once the first dish lands. Not only do you get perfectly sliced pieces of Japanese sea bream, tuna belly, and torched A5 wagyu, but also free pairings of saké all night. Every piece of nigiri is so delicious, thoughtful, and beautifully presented, that when asked to add caviar on top of the ice cream scoop for dessert, you almost can’t resist. Neo knows how to make every bite worth it, even at a minimum $185 person, which could be considered a relative bargain. Even though Neo went back to bookable reservations and abandoned the former newsletter-sign-up schadenfreude, it’s still difficult to grab a seat at the popular sushi omakase counter. While the first seating at 5:45pm is often available, the second seating at 8:30pm is harder to get last minute. So either opt for an early evening of 18-ish courses and make plans to digest afterward, or grab seats at least a few weeks in advance." - chelsea thomas, gianni greene, andrew ryce
"At first, Neo is hard to find. The exclusive, 10-seat counter is located inside a Montrose townhouse behind a clothing couturier. You might wonder what the hell you’re doing in a store with clothing somehow even more expensive than the meal you are about to eat. But once you’re whisked behind a closed door speakeasy-style and handed that first piece of nigiri, any bit of confusion disappears. Dinner consists of 18-20 courses of straight sushi. Each piece builds on the last and is served at the perfect temperature with light drizzles of sauce or minimal toppings. It’s blissful sushi matrimony. Even though Neo went back to bookable reservations and abandoned the former newsletter-sign-up schadenfreude, it’s still difficult to grab a seat at the popular sushi omakase counter. While the first seating at 5:45pm is often available, the second seating at 8:30pm is harder to get last minute. So either opt for an early evening of 18-ish courses and make plans to digest afterward, or grab seats at least a few weeks in advance." - chelsea thomas, gianni greene
"A 13-seat omakase tucked inside a high-end Houston boutique that blends Japanese technique with the chefs' Mexican heritage, incorporating ingredients like recado and explaining unfamiliar items to guests. Service is described as choreography—focused on looking good while working, hitting all the senses from music to plate textures—and the team reads the room to either engage diners or give them privacy, while also curating playlists and attentive details like seating and song preferences." - Erin Russell
"Neo HTX can be hard to find. The restaurant—one of Houston’s most intimate sushi omakase counters—is located, for some reason, inside of a Montrose townhouse that also just so happens to be a couture clothing store. And while there are no signs for Neo at 1711 Indiana Street, there is a server waiting to welcome you in (given you have a reservation) with a glass of bubbles. It feels a little weird. You might wonder what the hell you’re doing in a store full of couture clothing that’s somehow more expensive than the meal you are about to eat. But once you’re whisked behind a closed door to Neo’s 13-seat counter and handed that first piece of nigiri, any bit of awkwardness disappears, and you’re in for one of the best sushi omakase experiences to be had in Houston. photo credit: Liz Silva Unlike many other omakases in Houston, nearly every one of the 16-plus courses at Neo is a piece of nigiri. Both the fish and rice are served at the perfect temperature, so each piece melts into your tastebuds. Any flavor or special yakumi that tops the nigiri complements rather than obscures the fish—something other sushi spots around town haven’t quite nailed down. As the head chef chats quietly with guests, he intentionally and methodically slices fish throughout the evening. There’s no magic act here. No smoke-and-mirrors entertainment. Just a solid, thoughtful, traditional omakase. Flavors progress slowly from light fish, like golden eye snapper, to more substantial pieces like luscious akami tuna topped with dehydrated strawberry. Each piece somehow wonderfully builds on the last, with the menu ending with scoops of Underground Creamery ice cream, which, yes, you absolutely can top with caviar (for an extra fee). Going to Neo is not a last-minute decision. Reservations must be made in advance—you can’t just walk in. Also, a seat costs somewhere between $175 to $220 per person depending on the night. The cost, atmosphere, and decadent experience are best left for special occasions—unless you’re someone who has more money than they can spend in a lifetime and can knock back tuna belly on the daily. You can, however, BYOB, an option which makes any high-end night feel delightfully Houston. photo credit: Liz Silva photo credit: Liz Silva photo credit: Liz Silva photo credit: Liz Silva photo credit: Liz Silva Pause Unmute How to get into Neo HTX Even though Neo went back to bookable reservations and abandoned the former newsletter-sign-up schadenfreude, it’s still difficult to grab a seat at the popular sushi omakase counter. While the first seating at 5:45pm is often available, the second seating at 8:30pm is harder to get last minute. So either opt for an early evening of 18-ish courses and make plans to digest afterward, or grab seats at least a few weeks in advance. Food Rundown Omakase The nigiri-packed menu changes seasonally and has a specific focus on dry-aging techniques, including aged fish and wagyu as well as dehydrated seasonings, or yakumi. What Neo HTX pulls off better than other omakase and nigiri-focused sushi spots is a balance between the various yakumi toppings and the flavor of the fish itself. None of the yakumi obscures or overpowers, meaning fish from a light sea bream to oily mackerel aren’t obscured, but highlighted and heightened. You can appreciate both alongside one another without feeling like you’ve lost anything. photo credit: Liz Silva Drinks While Neo HTX is BYOB, servers also provide you with near constant glasses of sake, for no charge, throughout the meal. And they aren’t just serving the same cheap bottle. Rather, multiple bottles are paired with the pacing of the meal." - Chelsea Thomas
"A Montrose restaurant that stages an annual tuna breakdown tradition—this will be the fifth year—where chefs break down a whole tuna in front of guests and serve fresh sashimi and nigiri handed directly from the chef, alongside hand rolls, cocktails, and wine. Exact date and pricing are to be determined for Fall 2025; updates are posted on the restaurant’s Instagram and Resy page." - Brittany Britto Garley
