"There is a strong case to be made for simply ordering a large plate of seftalia, yoghurt and a pile of pitta and ignoring pretty much everything else on the menu at Paneri. A house speciality, the seftalia are juicy pork bombs full of bouncy, full-flavoured meat studded with hefty chunks of onion. The caul fat used to encase them brings a deeply satisfying funkiness, further enhanced by grilling. A taste of sun-soaked Greek grilling in Wood Green." - Helen Graves
"From the outside Paneri seems to be a simple kebab shop, but step past the counter and it could be mistaken for a homely taverna somewhere on the Cypriot coast. Grilled meat and fish are revered here, with excellent taut sheftalia — pork and offal sausages wrapped in caul fat — being the highlight from the skewers, their skins blistering on the grill. Two spits rotate by the window, one of lamb souvla and one of chicken, so often the cheaper, less appealing option, but here they’re juicy and plump with lacquered skin and meat which falls off the bone." - Jonathan Nunn
"Paneri appears to be a simple takeaway kebab operation from the outside, yet step past the counter and it could be mistaken for a homely taverna somwhere in Cyprus with the restaurant stretching well back into the building. Grilled meat and fish are revered here, with excellent, taut sheftalia (pork and offal sausages wrapped in caul fat) being the kebab highlights. Two spits rotate by the window — one of lamb souvla and one of chicken: juicy and plump with lacquered skin and meat which falls from the bone, these are some of the best rotisserie birds in London. A portion is even more of a steal if you swap the salad for chips, which are made cubed, Cypriot-style, with herbs and grilled onions." - Jonathan Nunn
"Paneri Taverna’s generous portions and complimentary mezze make the Green Lanes old-timer one of the road’s most celebrated restaurants. The pasticcio, or makaronia, is a heavy hitter: it’s a 15-tog duvet of creamy, nutmeg infused bechamel, minced beef sweet with onion and cinnamon, and soft, pillowy pasta. The popular chargrilled chicken and lamb souvla are served alongside kritharaki — also known as orzo — couscous, or rice. For those seeking youvetsi, beef and orzo stew, it’s best to head down the road to Asteria, where pasticcio is also on the menu. Open for takeaway." - Hester van Hensbergen
"Of all London’s souvlatzidiko, Paneri is the one most resembling the experience in Cyprus — the inviting smell of grilled meat cooking slowly over coal, wafting through the streets; wicker chairs placed haphazardly outside; and chatty regulars surrounding the place. The thing to go for here is the “mix” kebab, which is a giant Cypriot pitta stuffed with salted pork souvlaki, thickly-cut tomatoes and cucumber, and the house specialty, sheftalies — pork and offal sausages wrapped in caul fat. There’s a homely seating area in the back where households can order mezze and other classic Greek dishes, too. Paneri is the go-to for most people seeking out souvlaki in the area." - Chris Cotonou