Avant Garden
Vegan restaurant · East Village ·
Refined vegan dishes & global wines in a snug, brick-walled eatery
Refined vegan dishes & global wines in a snug, brick-walled eatery
"Vegetarian and vegan restaurants tend to be a lot like cover bands. The majority are awful, and some are actually shockingly good. Either way, they’re performing imitations of the real thing. That’s the case, for example, at Superiority Burger, a vegetarian takeout spot two few blocks up from the restaurant in question (which has received an inexplicably large amount of press). The veggie burger is tasty, sure, and probably the best of its kind, but it’s ultimately a cover band – a veggie version of Shake Shack or Corner Bistro or whatever other burgers people like. And look: that’s fine. It’s not like the guy in the KISS tribute band really wants people to think he’s Gene Simmons. (Well, he probably does, but you know he’s not). This brings us to Avant Garden, a tiny vegan East Village restaurant operated by the owner of several bars in the neighborhood. Here’s the thing: Avant Garden is not a cover band. Rather than serve vegetables that taste like meat, Avant Garden serves vegetables that taste like vegetables. They also serve bread, and pasta. Chewy, crusty bread topped with tomato jam and pickled peaches? Turns out that’s totally vegan. We’ve never eaten anything exactly like it in a restaurant, meat-serving or not. And that’s the case with the dishes throughout the menu here: they’re legitimately original. They’re also legitimately extremely tasty. Like most good artists, Avant Garden is definitely inspired and informed by other food. The beets dish definitely shares some qualities with a tuna tartare, and one of the mushrooms we ate tasted a lot like a scallop. But we felt smart when we realized that, not like we’d been asked to suspend our disbelief and pretend that beet was actually raw fish. Avant Garden may not be the kind of music you usually listen to, and eating there isn’t necessarily going to convert you into a diehard of the vegan genre. The experience also comes with some quirks, as opening yourself to new things often does. In this case, the tiny, unventilated space and open kitchen mean the room can get very smoky. Service can also be a little funky, probably due in part to the fact that there’s barely anywhere for the servers to stand. But you’ll get over it – trying new things is good, and you’ll definitely get to do that at Avant Garden. Food Rundown Tomato Jam, Pickled Peach, Tomato, Almond Ricotta, Basil Toast The first part of the menu is devoted to toasts, which are served on fantastic bread that apparently comes from Balthazar. This one’s the best of them – at once sweet, tangy, savory, creamy, and crunchy. I don’t even like tomatoes and I still would have ordered another. Peas, Cucumber, Beans, Whipped Tofu, Mint Toast Do you know about cucamelons? They’re tiny cucumbers that look like mini watermelons, and they are on this toast. This one’s lighter and brighter, with a lot of crunchy vegetables. If you’re the person who eats the whole crudite plate, you’ll like this one a lot. Beets, Mango, Avocado, Black Sesame, Tamari, Tobanjan, And Lime This is the rare dish that actually tastes as good as it looks. The beets sit on top of a creamy guacamole-type situation, with some salty, crunchy things that look like Rice Krispies. Farro Risotto, Butternut Squash, Baked Apple, Sage Pesto, Crispy Farro Putting pieces of crunchy, toasted farro on top of soft, cooked farro? That’s farroception, and it’s genius. This one’s basically Fall In A Bowl, and we like it a lot, though it is a bit sweet. King Oyster, Maitake, Smoked Macadamia, Crispy Leeks We were genuinely unaware that mushrooms were capable of tasting this way. Whatever’s going on here is beyond our understanding of fungi, but you definitely want it on your table." - Hillary Reinsberg
"Rather than serve vegetables that taste like meat, Avant Garden serves vegetables that taste like vegetables. They also serve bread and pasta. Chewy, crusty toast topped with fig, soy ricotta, and balsamic pearls? Turns out that’s totally vegan. We’ve never eaten anything exactly like it in a restaurant, meat-serving or not. And that’s the case with the dishes throughout the menu at this East Village restaurant: They’re legitimately original. They’re also legitimately tasty." - molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, neha talreja, kenny yang
"The anchor restaurant at this North County resort focuses on French and new American dishes at Rancho Bernardo Inn’s signature restaurant. A large on-site chef’s garden supplies the kitchen with vegetables, herbs, and fruits. The three private dining options include a private chef’s table for 12 people, El Biz for 20 people, and La Taberna for 50 people with a view of a golf course. Must-try dishes include chef’s garden lettuces, wagyu striploin, whole roasted branzino, and tres leches flan." - Helen I. Hwang
"Open since 2015, this little jewel box of a restaurant courtesy of Ravi DeRossi aims to give vegan food some well-deserved polish. Channeling all the coziness of a treehouse, this East Village mainstay offers a variety of dishes that are thoughtful and attractive. Recent highlights include deep-fried sushi rice topped with carrot, ginger, and avocado as well as artichoke and spinach toast garnished with green beans, jicama, and truffled potato chips. At times, the nicely curated menu goes a bit far in promising Spanish “paella” or Mexican “mole” but for those who appreciate strictly vegan fare in a stylish setting, this intimate restaurant certainly fits the bill." - Michelin Inspector
"Delivery and takeout available from this vegetarian Italian-ish spot. Order from here when you want your vegetables that taste like vegetables. They also serve some great pastas and toasts." - hannah albertine, nikko duren, bryan kim, arden shore, matt tervooren
