Joodooboo
Korean restaurant · Longfellow ·
Fresh Korean tofu & seasonal banchan with unique California-inspired prep
Fresh Korean tofu & seasonal banchan with unique California-inspired prep
"In Oakland’s vibrant food scene, I discovered a small, cheerful banchan shop and tofu-centric restaurant where Steve Joo has turned making dooboo—Korean tofu—into a meditation: after training at places like Chez Panisse and Terra and a formative year in Korea he apprenticed to learn to make the silky, nuanced, jiggly tofu made from just soybeans, water, a coagulant, and sea salt, and he deliberately gives it more time because small changes in temperature, stirring, and setting transform the result. That same intentionality and playfulness shows up in his small-batch banchan—like the seasonal, improvised green tomato kimchi sourced directly from local farmers—and in larger dishes such as the bright nori acorn noodle bowl with bouncy chilled acorn noodles, nori vinaigrette, pickled mushrooms, cucumbers, and kimchi. The fried dooboo set is an elaborate, comforting presentation: dusted, fried tofu served with Joo’s signature dooboo sauce (a California riff on a Korean dipping sauce made with fermented tea, herbs, and aromatics) alongside soup, rice, salad, kimchi, and the week’s banchan; specials can include an albacore ssam platter with squash blossoms, Sun Gold tomatoes, perilla leaves, and lettuce for wraps. Individual highlights that reflect the same farm-forward, ingredient-driven approach include the fried sand dab with saucy Sun Golds, squid jeot (salt-cured Half Moon Bay squid seasoned with chiles and sesame), and a melon and white nectarine spritz seasoned with house-fermented green plum syrup, Meyer lemon, chile, and salt; even the dooboo set’s sides—new potato jorim, green tomato kimchi, a gingery roasted apricot–daechoo vinaigrette salad, dooboo soup, millet-and-quinoa rice, and a peak-season “fruit of the week” such as Rainier cherries from K&J Orchards—underscore how he prepares ingredients to let them speak for themselves. Hospitality here feels like an act of love rather than performance, and the project reads as a personal, neighborhood-minded practice that connects people through thoughtful, seasonal food." - Raphael Brion
"This Korean deli in North Oakland is pumping out silky, downright transcendent tofu alongside seasonal banchan that changes weekly, which might include kabocha squash with toasted seeds, pickled carrots, and fried mushrooms. Whatever you end up with, it’s guaranteed to pair perfectly with some fresh or fried tofu, rice, and soup (make it a set for $22). Gobble it down on a sidewalk table, and repeat whenever you need something quick and filling." - Julia Chen, Lani Conway
"Steve Joo’s ode to dooboo and banchan is a sight to behold, especially given that the two foods typically get co-star status to other dishes. At Joodooboo, the attention is placed front and center on those items, with subscription worthy banchan made of seasonal ingredients and tofu that can only really be described as “pillow-soft.” Dig into a farmer’s bowl featuring the latest banchan selections over rice, with an added side of dooboo, and you’ll most likely find yourself heading back to the counter to take some extra servings of the banchan and tofu home." - Dianne de Guzman
"To celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival I’d go to the Péng Yǒu pop-up at Joodooboo on Sunday, June 9 from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., where chefs Jessica Fu, Henry Hsu, and Nancy Lau will sell festival fare—zongzi, bao, cake, and more—and I’d arrive early if I wanted to score the whole menu." - Paolo Bicchieri
"I noticed that Oakland’s tofu and banchan purveyor Joodooboo is hosting chefs Yuji Ishikata and Keisuke Akabori for a hotpot pop-up on Sunday, December 17 from noon to 4 p.m. (or until sold out), with customers able to choose a seafood set, a meat set, or a pescatarian option; the restaurant announced the event via Instagram." - Dianne de Guzman