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"A shining beacon in Oakland’s culinary scene despite sitting outside the city’s buzziest dining hubs, Chef Steve Joo’s temple to tofu lures with fresh banchan and dooboo (tofu) and a seasonal spritz. The fried dooboo—delicately battered, fried, and topped with dooboo sauce—makes a satisfying all-in-one set with banchan of the day, soup and rice, salad, kimchi, and a meal-ending piece of fruit ($22). For bowls, the acorn noodles lean tart with nori vinaigrette, kimchi, cucumbers, pickled mushrooms, and a choice of egg or dooboo, while the farmer’s bowl is rice-based and dives into seasonal vegetables, banchan, and a gorgeously fried egg. Order any extra banchan you can; the selection shifts with the seasons and showcases peak produce—think persimmon kimchi in winter or cucumber bokkeum in spring. To drink, the seasonal spritz is a standout for sparkling-water fans (in December it was kiwi and green tea), alongside plenty of bottled or canned nonalcoholic options, a small selection of beer and wine, and a couple of makgeolli choices. Best for lunch—though open for both lunch and dinner—the menu skews vegetable-forward, so diners craving a heavier protein-based dinner may want to skip. Locals can extend the experience with the Banchan Club subscription for banchan and dooboo, with delivery in San Francisco, the Peninsula, and South Bay, or pickup Wednesday through Saturday." - Dianne de Guzman