Byron T.
Yelp
SHIA in Washington, DC, offers an impressive fine dining experience that attempts to blend creativity and elegance, but for me, the execution fell short of expectations. While the buzz around Chef Edward Lee, fresh off his appearance in Culinary Class Wars, drew me to this restaurant, I left feeling that the food didn't justify the hype.
From the outside, SHIA is incredibly unassuming--you'd never guess that behind its modest exterior lies a gorgeously designed dining space. The interior is truly stunning, with sophisticated details like hidden bathroom doors behind wooden slats, ambient lighting, and an overall aesthetic that sets the tone for an upscale dining experience. Upon entry, the hostess greeted us warmly, took our coats, and led us to the bar where the evening began with our first course.
The meal was a perfectly choreographed progression, starting at the bar, moving to the kitchen area, and finally to the main dining room. The pacing was flawless--a rare treat for fine dining. There were no long, awkward waits between dishes, and the flow of the evening felt seamless. The staff was friendly, attentive, and welcoming at every stage. Chef Edward Lee himself was in the kitchen, orchestrating the meal and ensuring the evening ran smoothly, which was a nice touch for fans of his work.
The First Course
At the bar, we started with a chestnut makgeolli and pumpkin mandu with chestnut sauce and ginseng. The presentation was beautiful, and I appreciated the effort to kick things off with something unique, though the flavors were more subtle than I'd hoped. While enjoyable, the dish didn't make the memorable first impression I was expecting.
Kitchen Island Favorites
Next, we moved to the kitchen island, where the standout of the night was served: the scallop and fried oyster ssam. This handheld bite was perfectly executed, with fresh flavors that stood out in contrast to some of the later dishes. Accompanied by a fresh soju pairing, it felt like the peak of the evening, both in flavor and creativity.
Dining Room Letdowns
The third part of the meal took place in the main dining area. Here, the dishes began to falter, starting with the pine nut soondubu porridge. While refreshing, it was overly bland and had a texture that felt uninspired. The tuna bibimbap, touted as the "star" of the meal after its feature on Culinary Class Wars, left me disappointed. The tuna didn't feel cohesive with the dish, the rice was oddly dry and rubbery, and the housemade gochujang lacked depth. Personally, I don't think tuna belongs in bibimbap, but even setting that aside, the execution of the dish left much to be desired.
The doenjang pork belly with abalone and clams continued the trend of underwhelming dishes. While the combination of flavors was intriguing in theory, the portions were almost comically small, especially the abalone and clams, which felt more like garnishes than integral parts of the dish. The pork belly itself was fine but not memorable.
For the main course, I chose the grilled ribeye with galbi butter, while my wife opted for the rockfish. The ribeye was flavorful and cooked well, but it lacked the "wow" factor I associate with fine dining--it was a solid steak, nothing more. The galbi butter was a nice touch but didn't elevate the dish as much as I'd hoped. The rockfish, while perfectly cooked, was bland on its own. The accompanying jujube sauce, however, was a standout and worked beautifully, even with the steak.
Both mains came with a tiny bowl of kalguksu broth with noodles. While the broth itself was phenomenal, made with seafood and mushrooms for an umami punch, the portion size was baffling--just two noodles in the bowl. It left me wishing I could enjoy an entire bowl of what could have been a highlight of the meal.
Dessert and Final Thoughts
The meal ended with the nurunji with boricha ice cream, which was not only visually stunning but also delicious. The balance of textures and flavors was perfect, and it was one of the few dishes I wished had been served in a larger portion. However, the final bite--a peach gelee cube--felt like a misstep. It was bland and anticlimactic, leaving an odd impression at the end of the meal.
As a parting gesture, we were given a small goodie bag, which was a thoughtful touch and a nice way to close the experience.
Conclusion
SHIA delivers an impeccable atmosphere, great service, and a unique dining concept, but the food fell short of its fine-dining aspirations. Some dishes, like the scallop and fried oyster ssam, truly shone, but others, such as the tuna bibimbap and pork belly, felt forced and underwhelming. The menu seemed to aim for a Michelin-level experience but lacked the cohesion and creativity to achieve it.
While I enjoyed parts of the evening, I can't see myself rushing back unless the menu changes. SHIA excels in ambience and hospitality, but for a restaurant of this caliber, the food should leave a lasting impression.