Shiso
Restaurant · Wynwood ·
Asian smokehouse with Caribbean & Japanese flavors, great cocktails
Asian smokehouse with Caribbean & Japanese flavors, great cocktails
"Shiso is firmly a restaurant, but it has two big bars—one on the covered patio and another inside that glows like a bug zapper. The excellent cocktails that fuse Japanese and tropical flavors are worth the trip even if you’re not in the mood to demolish a smoked short rib. Their batida (a spin on a piña colada) is made with cachaça, Japanese rum, and banana miso coco. If you like to drink your dessert, their churro carajillo is a creamy coffee cocktail that comes with a dry ice performance. These cocktails taste like they were made by someone who cares about the meniscus on a jigger pour." - ryan pfeffer, virginia otazo
"Even though it’s on the roof of a shiny new building, Shiso reminds us of hashtagging our way through the Wynwood art walks of the twenty-teens. The indoor-outdoor restaurant has big cement columns tagged with graffiti. It’s fun, loud, and the Japanese menu has a Caribbean influence that feels refreshingly original in a neighborhood where everything is either a taco shop or an Italian restaurant. Stick to the meaty dishes like the short rib or the duck croquettes (and avoid sushi altogether) to get the most out of this place." - ryan pfeffer, virginia otazo, mariana trabanino
"You can have a great meal at Shiso once you learn what to ignore. The sushi selection, for example, is an expensive trap. Don’t get bogged down ordering oxtail gunkan or brisket nigiri just because it sounds cool. These are distractions from the real reason you’re coming here: to have an impressive slab of short rib smoked to perfection. Shiso calls itself an Asian smokehouse, and it’s at its best when it leans more into the smokehouse. The main focus of your order should be on the heavy, meaty dishes. Certain smaller bites feel forced, like the miso uni cornbread that’s simply cornbread wearing a random hat of uni. Or the smoked brisket nigiri that’s conceptually intriguing until it arrives and you realize you paid $20 for two teeny slivers of brisket and a mouthful of rice. Skip these fusion misses and start with the plump brisket croquettes or duck dumplings swimming in jus. Just leave enough room for that short rib. photo credit: Shiso photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez/CG Media photo credit: Shiso Pause Unmute Shiso is another big, flashy Wynwood restaurant overlooking an overpriced apartment complex and a mural that isn’t worth describing because it’ll probably get torn down in a few months. The concrete walls inside the dining room are covered in graffiti. It almost reminds us of an early 2010s Wynwood, and it’s a refreshing change from the neighboring restaurants whose massive chandeliers and Pottery Barn decor have no sense of place. The outdoor seating is a fine spot for brunch on a breezy day—even if said brunch may run you up to $150 for two people. But hey, that’s the Wynwood of today for you. video credit: Julia Malave video credit: Julia Malave video credit: Mariana Trabanino video credit: Julia Malave video credit: Julia Malave Pause Unmute If Shiso feels familiar, that’s because Kyu is just a five-minute walk away. Both restaurants not only share a chef, but a menu that revolves around smoked meats and Asian fusion. Between these fraternal twins, Shiso is the better choice. Not only is their short rib superior (and a bit cheaper), but the restaurant is also just more fun. Shiso’s cocktail program is outstanding, and when Mike Posner’s “Cooler Than Me” starts playing, you might suddenly remember simpler times in Wynwood, when you could go see the green muscular baby inside the Wynwood Walls—for free. Food Rundown Cocktails We’d go to Shiso just for the cocktails. This one is called saisei. It’s their version of a mojito, garnished with a bright green shiso leaf, and it has forever ruined regular mojitos for us. If you come for brunch, get the bloody nari—the pleasant hint of soy sauce melds seamlessly with the tomato juice. photo credit: Shiso Shiso Salad This creamy salad is topped with quail eggs and furikake for crunch. It’s one of the lighter things on the menu, and since you’ll probably be gorging on beef later, you should start here. photo credit: Virginia Otazo Stracciatella This tie-dye puddle of pesto, chili oil, and stracciatella is served with crisp sourdough slices. It’s one of our favorite starters because it’s not overcomplicated—just simple and delicious. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Oxtail Udon Noodle Creamy udon noodles, shredded oxtail, and an egg yolk. This is a rich-on-rich-on-rich combination. It’s good, but share it with a friend. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Duck Dumplings Juicy and packed with delicious duck, it’s perfect for gauging if your date likes you enough to give up the third dumpling. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Uni Rice It’s more like a risotto, and almost every spoonful is guaranteed to have a bite of king crab. Hefty dollops of uni and ikura are also scattered throughout the bowl. This is a lavish Easter egg hunt for seafood fanatics, and we like it. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Smoked Short Rib It looks like something a caveman would be really proud to present to his family. Unlike the smoked meat nigiris, the combination of rich short rib, sushi rice, and shiso feels intentional and works beautifully. Use all the fixings of pickled vegetables and sauces to make your own handroll. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Shiso Chicken, Please This tiny cornish hen is half-smoked, half-fried, and slightly dry. It’s almost more bone than chicken, and if you try to split it with a group, everyone will get sad. Skip this. photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez/CG Media" - Mariana Trabanino
"Chef Raheem Sealy made a name for himself helming the kitchen at the original Kyu and his pop-up restaurant, Drinking Pig BBQ. Now, Sealy marries his Asian, Caribbean, and barbecue techniques in one place at Shiso. Nowhere does that translate more than in Sealy’s “Shiso Chicken, Please,” a whole chicken (half smoked, half fried) served with pickles and scallion waffles. Or, try the smoked short rib, a shareable piece of meat served with sushi rice, barbecue sauce, and pickles so you can make your own hand rolls." - Laine Doss
"Chef Raheem Sealey is set to open on Friday, March 28 an Asian smokehouse that combines Japanese cooking techniques with Caribbean flavors; the result is a menu full of creative combinations like sake-glazed creamed corn, sticky ribs with furikake, and oxtail gunkan. Sealey, known for leading the kitchen at popular wood-fired Asian restaurant KYU and American barbecue spot Drinking Pig, explains his approach: "Cooking is something deeply personal to me," says Sealey, "I appreciate the simplicity of Japanese cuisine and love combining it with the bold flavors of the Caribbean. My Caribbean roots, from St. Croix, influence the cuts of meat, spices, and fish I use in the menu. It’s not about specific dishes, but about the overall flavor. By blending the vibrant tastes of the islands with the precision of Japanese cooking, I’m honoring my heritage while creating something that reflects both cultures. The result is something new, surprising, and uniquely mine." The dining room is sleek, combining concrete, graffiti, and chandeliers to create an urban-meets-glossy space, with indoor and outdoor rooftop areas, two different bars, chef’s counter seating, and Harajuku-inspired bathrooms full of anime art. Located at 239 NW 28th Street, it will open Tuesdays through Sundays from 5 p.m. to close." - Erin Perkins
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