A successful night at Shiso revolves around the short rib - Review - Miami - The Infatuation
"You can have a great meal at Shiso once you learn what to ignore. The sushi selection, for example, is an expensive trap. Don’t get bogged down ordering oxtail gunkan or brisket nigiri just because it sounds cool. These are distractions from the real reason you’re coming here: to have an impressive slab of short rib smoked to perfection. Shiso calls itself an Asian smokehouse, and it’s at its best when it leans more into the smokehouse. The main focus of your order should be on the heavy, meaty dishes. Certain smaller bites feel forced, like the miso uni cornbread that’s simply cornbread wearing a random hat of uni. Or the smoked brisket nigiri that’s conceptually intriguing until it arrives and you realize you paid $20 for two teeny slivers of brisket and a mouthful of rice. Skip these fusion misses and start with the plump brisket croquettes or duck dumplings swimming in jus. Just leave enough room for that short rib. photo credit: Shiso photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez/CG Media photo credit: Shiso Pause Unmute Shiso is another big, flashy Wynwood restaurant overlooking an overpriced apartment complex and a mural that isn’t worth describing because it’ll probably get torn down in a few months. The concrete walls inside the dining room are covered in graffiti. It almost reminds us of an early 2010s Wynwood, and it’s a refreshing change from the neighboring restaurants whose massive chandeliers and Pottery Barn decor have no sense of place. The outdoor seating is a fine spot for brunch on a breezy day—even if said brunch may run you up to $150 for two people. But hey, that’s the Wynwood of today for you. video credit: Julia Malave video credit: Julia Malave video credit: Mariana Trabanino video credit: Julia Malave video credit: Julia Malave Pause Unmute If Shiso feels familiar, that’s because Kyu is just a five-minute walk away. Both restaurants not only share a chef, but a menu that revolves around smoked meats and Asian fusion. Between these fraternal twins, Shiso is the better choice. Not only is their short rib superior (and a bit cheaper), but the restaurant is also just more fun. Shiso’s cocktail program is outstanding, and when Mike Posner’s “Cooler Than Me” starts playing, you might suddenly remember simpler times in Wynwood, when you could go see the green muscular baby inside the Wynwood Walls—for free. Food Rundown Cocktails We’d go to Shiso just for the cocktails. This one is called saisei. It’s their version of a mojito, garnished with a bright green shiso leaf, and it has forever ruined regular mojitos for us. If you come for brunch, get the bloody nari—the pleasant hint of soy sauce melds seamlessly with the tomato juice. photo credit: Shiso Shiso Salad This creamy salad is topped with quail eggs and furikake for crunch. It’s one of the lighter things on the menu, and since you’ll probably be gorging on beef later, you should start here. photo credit: Virginia Otazo Stracciatella This tie-dye puddle of pesto, chili oil, and stracciatella is served with crisp sourdough slices. It’s one of our favorite starters because it’s not overcomplicated—just simple and delicious. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Oxtail Udon Noodle Creamy udon noodles, shredded oxtail, and an egg yolk. This is a rich-on-rich-on-rich combination. It’s good, but share it with a friend. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Duck Dumplings Juicy and packed with delicious duck, it’s perfect for gauging if your date likes you enough to give up the third dumpling. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Uni Rice It’s more like a risotto, and almost every spoonful is guaranteed to have a bite of king crab. Hefty dollops of uni and ikura are also scattered throughout the bowl. This is a lavish Easter egg hunt for seafood fanatics, and we like it. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Smoked Short Rib It looks like something a caveman would be really proud to present to his family. Unlike the smoked meat nigiris, the combination of rich short rib, sushi rice, and shiso feels intentional and works beautifully. Use all the fixings of pickled vegetables and sauces to make your own handroll. PlayMute video credit: Julia Malave Shiso Chicken, Please This tiny cornish hen is half-smoked, half-fried, and slightly dry. It’s almost more bone than chicken, and if you try to split it with a group, everyone will get sad. Skip this. photo credit: Cristian Gonzalez/CG Media" - Mariana Trabanino
