Suba Bakery - Review - Walthamstow - London - The Infatuation
"Suba Bakery is a tiny, Gambian-influenced bakery that makes some of London’s best pastries. Inside everything is various shades of soothing carb-brown. There’s slatted wood that you can peep through to see bakers hard at work, burnished, burnt orange tiling, and the counter of delicious beige itself. There aren’t many seats at this Walthamstow spot, but if you can't nab a counter stool it’s still worth eating on the go and getting flaky croissant crumbs embedded in your jumper. Come early to have your pick of the bunch—aromatic caraway buns, pain au chocolat with toasted coconut flakes, and pillowy tapalapa bread. The plain croissant should definitely be part of your haul. It's got a proud, puffed-up dome shape, flaky, light layers that aren't overly buttery, and it's glazed with mango syrup to give it a shiny, crispy crust.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Pain Au Chocolat
This pain au chocolat’s golden brown chest is puffed up like it’s just won a competition. And it kind of has, as one of our favourite pastries in the city. The chocolate is dark, rich, and not overbearing. It’s also that perfect consistency somewhere between completely set and melted. Like all the pastries here, the lamination is expertly done.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Cinnamon Caraway Bun
All rational people can agree that cinnamon buns are great. But sometimes they’re doused in thick, gluey icing that’s overly sweet. These aren’t that. There’s the right amount of sugary stickiness and the caraway balances the sweetness with a little warmth and spice. It’s vegan too. And we want the baker who created this to teach us braiding, because we’ve never managed a plait this neat.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Plain Croissant
It says a lot that with all of the ‘look at me’ special flavours Suba has going on, we always order a plain croissant. It’s perfectly crisp, buttery, but not greasy or underbaked, and with more layers than a Christopher Nolan film.
Cashew Croissant
We’re going to call it, this is better than an almond croissant. Like the caraway cinnamon bun, the flavours are perfectly in balance. The cashew is sweet, but less so than a classic almond pastry, and it doesn’t get sickly. It’s also nutty and toasty, and we can eat a whole one without feeling like the rest of the day is a write-off.
video credit: Sinéad Cranna
Salmon, Whipped Cream Cheese Sandwich
The bread is the main even here—it's tapalapa, a Senegalese bread shaped like a baguette, with a sourdough tang and a nice springy interior. The smoked salmon is, well, smoked salmon. The whipped cream cheese is a nice touch. But really we could eat hunks of this bread without fillings." - Sinéad Cranna