SUKH
Thai restaurant · Fort Greene ·
Train-themed Thai restaurant with flavorful dishes and cocktails
Train-themed Thai restaurant with flavorful dishes and cocktails
"This restaurant in Fort Greene is gorgeously designed, drawing from Thai railroad history as the inspiration for pew-like benches outside, linen curtains, and red-and-gold accents that might convince you you’re in a private lounge in a beautiful old train station. But you’re not. You’re in a restaurant, and it’s a very good one. Split a couple of dishes with a friend or two—the space is pretty tight. The hor mok, a steamed branzino custard with crab, is buzzing with fresh chiles, while the kee mao noodles are herby with basil leaves and draped with long pepper. We also like the pla muk yang—a squeaky whole squid with a bright chili lime dressing for $20." - will hartman, willa moore, neha talreja, molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim
"Just steps above the Fulton Street G station, Sukh (723 Fulton Street at Fort Greene Place), open since the spring and sharing owners with Nourish Thai in Prospect Heights, feels like you’ve snuck onto an old‑timey train car: warm wood paneling, dark red booths with velour curtains, arched cutouts displaying old records, moody lighting and a 1960s jazz soundtrack create a transportive, compact dining room that replaced the former National. The restaurant cites Thailand’s railway history as inspiration and its menu lists each dish’s city of origin; classics such as pad see ew and crab fried rice are solid, but the small and large plates are the most intriguing. We found the khao khai ra-bert — minced beef cooked in an herbaceous dry curry paste, topped with a crispy fried omelet and served with rice — particularly satisfying, while the pla tod samun prai, a butterflied fried branzino with fried herbs and a chile-lime dipping sauce, was fun. Another standout, from what we saw around the room and on social media, was the hor mok — branzino curry custards topped with crab meat, served under individual clay lids and recommended to be eaten in one bite; they were spicy, fluffy, and moist. The place was busy but not chaotic, with a charming front patio for people-watching; reservations for groups up to six are easy to get and the takeout business is solid. Service felt paced — not rushed but with the sense it’s best not to linger amid delivery drivers and waiting diners — and because the liquor license is still pending, the bar offers a long list of creative nonalcoholic beverages, fruit-forward refreshments, Thai iced drinks, NA cocktails and NA beers. Large plates are generous, so if you want to try a lot, come with a crew." - Bettina Makalintal
"If you squint hard enough at this Fort Greene restaurant celebrating Thailand’s train culture, you could convince yourself you’re in an exhibit at the transit museum. The decor—dark-stained wooden benches, linen-covered windows, and old leather luggage decorating the walls—is by far the most memorable thing about the restaurant. The food has some highs, and some lows, and ultimately plays second fiddle to the space. photo credit: Mitree Pumee Sukh’s love of the past extends to their physical menu, too, which is designed like an old newspaper and details the history and culture of Thai train stations. It even lists the regional origins of several dishes, like the creamy and fishy hor mok from Pattaya, or the pleasantly spicy kapraw moo from Bangkok. There are enough hits on the menu—hor mok and kapraw moo included—to justify a trip to the restaurant even if not everything works. (And even if you don't have a collection of model trains in your basement.) So keep Sukh in mind for a casual group dinner in the area the next time you want to catch up over juicy papaya salad, and plates of sweet and chewy noodles. Food Rundown Kapraw Moo Punchy and spicy, this is the entree to prioritize. Eat it with a spoon—the heat should wake up your nose. photo credit: Will Hartman Hor Mok This dish could make little terra cotta hats fashionable. Salty and warm, and topped with luxurious steamed crab, we always appreciate an appetizer that we don’t see all that often around the city. photo credit: Will Hartman Gai Tod Nom Pla Yes these are fried until crispy, but the wings unfortunately don’t pick up enough of the caramelized fish sauce that they need. photo credit: Will Hartman Gor Gluay The best part of this dish is the textural contrast between the chewy pancakes similar to turnip cakes, fried wonton skins, and crunchy peanuts. Though some bites lack salt, it's still fun to eat and worth ordering. Somtum Thai Crunchy and refreshing, get this if it’s above 70 degrees out. It’s Sukh’s version of AC (the restaurant is more than temperate inside). But the combination of acidity, crunch, funk, and a touch of spice make this an essential summer dish. photo credit: Will Hartman Khao Tom Heng This steamed rice with a bunch of proteins—fried sausage, crispy pork belly, shrimp, fried tofu, and stir-fried ground pork—is missing cohesion, and feels a bit like a 1am meal that you pull together with what’s in your fridge. The side of soup is warming and stellar, though." - Will Hartman
"Styled like an old‑fashioned train car, I find Sukh a slightly more upscale Thai from the owners of Nourish; in Fort Greene the menu is more ambitious and spicier. The khao soi here is exactly what I want when I see it on a menu: the red curry broth is balanced with a kick and comes teeming with a chicken drumstick and pickled mustard greens ($22)." - Eater Staff
"A Fort Greene Thai restaurant designed in the style of a train car, Sukh debuted from the team behind Nourish." - Emma Orlow
