SUKH

A Traincar-Themed Restaurant, Sukh Offers Dishes From Around Thailand | Eater NY

"Just steps above the Fulton Street G station, Sukh (723 Fulton Street at Fort Greene Place), open since the spring and sharing owners with Nourish Thai in Prospect Heights, feels like you’ve snuck onto an old‑timey train car: warm wood paneling, dark red booths with velour curtains, arched cutouts displaying old records, moody lighting and a 1960s jazz soundtrack create a transportive, compact dining room that replaced the former National. The restaurant cites Thailand’s railway history as inspiration and its menu lists each dish’s city of origin; classics such as pad see ew and crab fried rice are solid, but the small and large plates are the most intriguing. We found the khao khai ra-bert — minced beef cooked in an herbaceous dry curry paste, topped with a crispy fried omelet and served with rice — particularly satisfying, while the pla tod samun prai, a butterflied fried branzino with fried herbs and a chile-lime dipping sauce, was fun. Another standout, from what we saw around the room and on social media, was the hor mok — branzino curry custards topped with crab meat, served under individual clay lids and recommended to be eaten in one bite; they were spicy, fluffy, and moist. The place was busy but not chaotic, with a charming front patio for people-watching; reservations for groups up to six are easy to get and the takeout business is solid. Service felt paced — not rushed but with the sense it’s best not to linger amid delivery drivers and waiting diners — and because the liquor license is still pending, the bar offers a long list of creative nonalcoholic beverages, fruit-forward refreshments, Thai iced drinks, NA cocktails and NA beers. Large plates are generous, so if you want to try a lot, come with a crew." - Bettina Makalintal