"This restaurant in Fort Greene is gorgeously designed, drawing from Thai railroad history as the inspiration for pew-like benches outside, linen curtains, and red-and-gold accents that might convince you you’re in a private lounge in a beautiful old train station. But you’re not. You’re in a restaurant, and it’s a very good one. Split a couple of dishes with a friend or two—the space is pretty tight. The hor mok, a steamed branzino custard with crab, is buzzing with fresh chiles, while the kee mao noodles are herby with basil leaves and draped with long pepper. We also like the pla muk yang—a squeaky whole squid with a bright chili lime dressing for $20." - will hartman, willa moore, neha talreja, molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim