Emmett T.
Yelp
I promised to return for a meal at Sushi Gaga located in a private room behind the new ASA Bakery in the East Village section of downtown. The business debuted on the 15th of this month and will conclude its soft opening by the 30th. The full grand opening will commence on the first of October which will include an increase in the dinner menu price. Reservations can be made on Tock, but openings may be difficult to find. Unlike other omakase-only eateries, Sushi Gaga has just one seating per night at the bar which holds ten diners.
The owners of the three-in-one food and drink concept (bakery, speakeasy, sushi bar) were from nearby BeShock Ramen which is located one block west on Market St. The inspiration behind naming Sushi Gaga was two-fold. Not only was there a devotion to Lady Gaga, the American singer/actress, but the Japanese character for Gaga bears a resemblance to the name of one of the co-owners.
Before we entered, a staff member approached us outside the entrance, marked off our reservation, and then provided a complimentary flute of fresh orange juice. The two chefs for the evening greeted all the customers upon entry and then we were instructed to sit at assigned seats around the bar. Individual menu cards with the party name listed at the top were provided at each setting. I appreciated the personal touch along with the description of the courses because it allowed me to ask more informed questions to the chef during the meal.
The Kappo-style menu featured an 18-course progression that lasted about two-and-a-half hours. Each course was paired with a recommended alcoholic beverage. Of note, one of the co-owners is a sake sommelier which is rare in the States. Here was the sequence...
* Sakizuke - Pacific Octopus, Bluefin Tuna, Japanese Mackerel (Saba) sashimi, Roasted Duck with fig honey tofu
* Sashimi - Cherry blossom (Sakura) smoked Trevally Jack (Shima Aji) with roasted sesame shoyu
* Oyster & Lobster Confit - Pacific Oyster, Maine Lobster, dashi broth, daikon radish, oyster leaf, kinome leaves, chives, and a piece of bread from the bakery
* Nigiri (part one) - Black Throat Perch (Nodoguro), Hokkaido Scallop (Hotate), Bluefin Tuna Zuke, Amberjack (Kanpachi) Foie Gras (Duck Liver) Yuzukosho
* Braised Abalone - Abalone from Chile, liver pate, kinome leaf
* Nigiri (part two) - Trevally Jack (Shima Aji), Golden Eye Snapper (Kinmedai), Geoduck (Mirugai)
* Chawanmushi - Seasonal savory egg custard with ankake (savory dashi sauce)
* Nigiri (part three) - Konbu cured Red Snapper (Madai) with caviar, A5 Wagyu with black truffle shavings, Gaga Roll [chopped Bluefin Tuna Belly with green onions topped with Salmon Roe (Ikura) and Hokkaido Sea Urchin (Uni)]
* Gyokai Ramen - Thin noodles in a fish broth, grilled Sea Bream (Tai) chashu, and yuzu
* Dessert - Hokkaido milk soft serve topped with gold leaves and served with a Sushi Gaga embossed rice cracker split into two halves
* Green Tea - Whole tea leaves (Sencha) processed in hot water
These were some highlights from the ten pieces of nigiri and eight courses...
- The fig honey tofu was a cream that didn't look like traditional tofu. It could have passed for a silky sweet cheese.
- My favorite was the Oyster & Lobster Confit. This was an elevated chowder with one large oyster and two pieces of lobster. The bread functioned as a sponge to sop up the remaining liquid in the bowl.
- I had never tried duck liver on sushi before. The same liver was used with the abalone which I thought was a better pairing than the amberjack.
- The piece of wagyu topped with shaved black truffle must have accounted for at least 20% of the cost of the entire meal. It was next level decadent.
- The ramen broth was light while the chashu preparation of the fish was a new experience.
- The ice cream was rich and very smooth. You can purchase it a la carte from the bakery which was worth returning for.
If time allows, the chefs will ask if anyone would like to order a la carte sushi. The offering on that particular night was Saltwater Eel (Anago). More than half of the room elected to try the roasted eel, but we passed. As we left the room, there was a surprise waiting for everyone on a countertop at the bakery. A gift bag addressed to each diner contained a complimentary piece of Japanese Melon Pan. It's a sweet bread shaped like a melon, hence the name. Hokkaido flour was used to create a soft interior with a crunchy sweet crust.
This place will likely inherit the crown of the most expensive omakase in San Diego. The cost was justified because of the contemporary high-end ingredients used in multiple courses. Between the abalone, black truffle, caviar, foie gras, lobster, uni, and wagyu, these were top quality items that redefine an upscale sushi experience. If you enjoy sake, then it's another layer of extravagance that can be added to a five-star dinner at Sushi Gaga.