Kevin K.
Yelp
Ever been to KiraKira? an odd question to pose to New Yorkers, since it references a place nearly 6800 miles northwest on the other side of the Bering Strait, and even in its native home it's a hole in the wall. A relatively new wall and that's a fairly large hole it's attached to, but it's actually something that keeps me up at night in NYC, mostly because I have a hankering for it. KiraKira is a Yokohama based company selling rice balls (Onigiri) to local hospitals, unversity campuses and corporate cafeterias around the Tokyo bay region and they had a single directly managed retail location near the Tokyo Monorail terminal at Hamamatsucho. Thanks to the Tokyo World Trade center redevelopment (and consequently the reconstruction of the Monorail terminal) the original shop re-opened 2 years ago at the new Tokyo WTC complex (one of the newer developments in the area due to the 2020 Tokyo Olympics) - it's on the south building ground level facing Sagatani Sobaya.
KiraKira was famous for being a favorite grab-and-go for flight crews and travellers heading to Haneda (the monorail is, along with Keikyu branch line one of the 2 major rail lines for that airport) as it was fresh, cheap and open early on weekdays. Nowadays it primarily serve the office workers inside the World Trade center complex as it is a little further from the Tokyo monorail terminal. The Onigiri? Tasty and served by friendly obas and obachans. It also reminds me a bit of Tokuyama Matcha and Onigirazu.
Well, maybe it's its inherent Japanese-ness and its attention to detail. So when it comes to matcha, you generally look at teas sourced from 3 areas - Shizuoka 静岡 which is near Mount Fuji, Uji 宇治 near Kyoto, and Sayama 狭山 in Saitama which is north of Tokyo. According to a Japanese folk song 色は静岡、香りは宇治よ、味は狭山でとどめさす - or "Shizuoka for the color, Uji for the fragrance and Sayama for the flavor". Of course, the song did originate from Sayama tea pickers so there's some bias here. Uji is fairly popular due to Kyoto being a popular tourist destination. Sayama teas tend to be roasted in a kiln to make Hojicha (what the Japanese tend to prefer for daily drinking along with Oolong from Southern China), and both Shizuoka and teas from Kyushu (Western Japan) are well represented in craft matcha blends from the likes of MatchaLab or Tadaima. Tokuyama uses Shizuoka matcha which tends to have a slightly salty/umami, vegetable-like flavor, and it's whipped using an electric whisk. Personally I found it to be okay, but I am not a major matcha fan - I prefer ice cold Hojicha or Konacha myself. Their real payoff is the Onigirazu.
So what is onigirazu? Think of a Japanese riceball, supersized until it's about the same as a sandwich, and stuffed with Japanese food favorites. It could be like teriyaki, chicken curry, or gyudon (Japanese braised beef bowl), or kara-age (fried chicken) or even something like your usual bowl of ramen ingredients. the original Tokuyama matcha bar location in the East village was actually a side gig for Tokuyama Takahide 徳山隆偉, a hair stylist hailing from Osaka (he has a salon in Shibuya, one in Azabu (Tokyo), one in the Upper west and one in Tribeca), but considering how the Onigirazu bars turned out, I think Taka stumbled upon a good thing. The Onigirazus are freshly made (not premade and cold with the alien nori wrapper) and fairly tasty as I tend to grab a pair to go walking with the missus (she would say that the cooking is better at the midtown location versus the alphabet city one) and service is decently friendly. It's good fuel to grab for the walk from midtown all the way across the Queensboro bridge to Astoria and beyond. Personally I like the karaage with the garlic umami oil, but the honey teriyaki chicken curry one is also great.
Oh yeah, in case you were wondering, the Onigirazu bar took over what used to be Kaylee's creamery. I swore that I got ice cream here not that long ago. Oh well, c'est la vie.