"A Left Bank institution by Yves Camdeborde, this standing-room-only spot embraces bistronomy’s convivial spirit: perch at the bar, carve curls of butter for crusty bread, and choose tapas-style plates from cards dangling from the ceiling. The food leans meaty and creative — highlights include truffled Comté croque-monsieur, house-made fries with tarragon mayo, beef tataki with asparagus and peas (and an unexpected peanut note), pâté en croûte, and black pudding terrine. No reservations, so arrive early for apéro; a neighboring seafood sister bar offers an alternative." - Eleanor Aldridge