"Journey to Modern Istanbul The lifeblood of modern Istanbul is the two-mile-long pedestrian street Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue), running from Taksim Square to the Tünel train station. It's equal parts touristy and local, commerce and culture, and strolling down the avenue to shop, dine, or just socialize is a favorite pastime of many Istanbullus. (The beloved red-and-white tram is out of service for the foreseeable future while the street gets some much-needed maintenance.) Though many complain about encroaching international chain stores and shopping malls taking the thoroughfare's distinct character away, there are still plenty of gems if you follow the backstreets and duck into the historic passages. Don't forget to look up: Many of the art nouveau and Ottoman-era buildings house rooftop cafés and businesses above street level."
