"A tiny counter tucked into the labyrinth of the Ginza subway station where a single, slow-moving line can determine whether you get one of the last bowls of their famed ramen. Patrons report being told, politely but firmly, that the broth has run out for those ahead in line; persistence often requires returning earlier and waiting again—sometimes nearly two hours—but the eventual payoff is a bowl with an exceptionally rich, deep, and exquisite broth that many describe as worth the endurance." - Helen Rosner