"Every bite you’ll eat at By Tae bears the imprimatur of Hong’s hands, and I mean that in the most appetizing way possible. It works like this: You show up to the counter at 11:30 a.m. and scribble your name on the sign-up sheet for one of three seatings. (손맛 By Tae serves only lunch, only on weekdays.) When the counter originally opened, the idea was to serve a hand-roll set: three generous rolls for $25. But on my visit, the meal started with soft tofu heaped with fresh pea shoots, two perfect bites of nigiri, and a paper cup of miso soup—before the succession of nori-wrapped handrolls bursting with scallops and pop-y salmon roe began. Hong seemed to know most of the other folks seated at the counter, bantering with some bros from the upstairs co-working space while seemingly simultaneously handling the rice, slicing the day’s fish, and ringing up to-go bento-box orders." - ByJulia Kramer
