"A nerdy, highly focused Quebecois restaurant driven by research into the province’s culinary history; the chef combs through old Quebec cookbooks and pairs that scholarship with inventive techniques—examples include churning spring radishes into a cream to accompany raw scallops from the islands and serving homemade brioche—often with the chef himself presenting the generous $58 tasting menu." - ByMehdi Brunet-Benkritly, as told to Mia Leimkuhler