The Upper House

"Start us off with an overview: what were your first impressions?One of the most lavish addresses in all of Hong Kong, the Upper House combines a world-class hotel with ultra-sleek minimalist Japanese design. Atop the JW Marriott, but completely distinct from it, the Upper House used to be serviced apartments. Part of the Swire boutique collection of Houses (Opposite, Middle, Temple), its interiors were designed by Hong Kong wunderkind Andre Fu. Got it. So tell us about your room.Upper Suite. Crisp, clean design—with arresting metropolitan and marine views. Cushioned window seats, hippo-sized tub, Jacob Jensen alarm clock. Lights that switch on and off without any fiddling; a wide chrome handle to flush the toilet. I’d return like a shot. The backgammon board is a nice touch, even if you don’t play. The coffee-table book selection seems more for show. Say we're famished. What are our options?Gray Kunz has a restaurant on site. Immediate neighbors at dinner: Chinese tycoon grandparents treating their progeny; Mr. & Mrs. Cashed-Up Senior Tourist; couple on second or third date (he did most of the talking). Modern European cuisine. The lamb rack tagine with apricots, dates, and merguez is beautifully balanced and intelligently presented (Chinese grandpa looked across intently when it was delivered). Breakfast does a neat East/West tango: think congee with ginger and coriander, quinoa yogurt porridge with passion fruit. How did you find service overall?All guests are whisked upstairs; check-in is accomplished in a trice and the room how-tos courteously explained. That a maintenance worker paused in his task to wish me "good morning" and open the door to the lawn is the best service indicator. Imagine the other guests are part of a tribe. How would you describe them?Well-traveled, well-heeled, well-to-do. See above for dinner guests. What about the neighborhood? Anything we should know about this hotel's location?It’s atop Pacific Place mall, which is atop the metro station. Conrad, Shangri-La, JW Marriott in hailing distance. A swathe of retail, like Harvey Nichols, King & Country (model soldiers) all are nearby. Possibly the most comfortable cinema in Hong Kong, too. And there's the Hong Kong Park and aviary and tea museum next door. Trams (street and Peak) are within walking distance. Staying here, you get a genuine sense of the city. What's the one thing you'd change? Balconies are an impossibility, but one can dream. Anything else worth calling out?There’s no spa (yet: treatment salon in the works) or pool, but access can be arranged at sister property EAST, or nearby hotels. The Café Gray Bar is popular for aperitifs, sundowners, nightcaps, and any form of alcohol-accessorized socializing. Bonsai fitness center. The Sky Lounge is dedicated to general rest and recreation, but also regularly hosts talks and discussions. Sum it up for us: Worth it, and why?This is one of Hong Kong’s acupressure points: in the city, but set judiciously apart, hospitable and imaginative." - Ed Peters