Hôtel Raphael

"How did it strike you on arrival?Family-owned and -operated since 1925 (it's now watched over by the fourth generation), this boutique five-star's intimate take on luxury has garnered it a legion of regulars, including a fair share of boldface names. Though the vibe is discreet, the public spaces are hardly subtle: Oriental rugs, trompe l’oeil walls, rich wood paneling, and antiques and artwork from the family’s collection—including an original Turner—adorn the main halls and lounges. Nice. What’s the crowd like?Trade stories with international travelers who've been coming here for years; maybe one or two will have a tale about spying Audrey Hepburn in the elevator, or Cary Grant in the bar. The good stuff: Tell us about your room.The 82 rooms and suites run large, and have been decked out in a traditional French style, with antique writing desks, polished wood wardrobes, and accent walls covered in fabric or painted with classical landscapes. Many overlook city landmarks like the Arc de Triomphe or Eiffel Tower, while suites take it further with ivy-covered terraces, fireplaces, separate living rooms, or beds hidden away behind silk curtains. Please tell us the bathroom won’t let us down.Entry-level rooms have a bath or shower, but a tub becomes standard the higher you go. The design is varied, too, with some covered in colorful tiles and frescoes that evoke the Amalfi Coast. Maybe the most important topic of all: Wi-Fi. What’s the word?Wi-Fi is complimentary. Staff: If you could award one a trophy, who gets it, and why?Many of the staffers have been there a long time, and treat returning guests like family. Anything stand out about other services and features? Whether it’s childcare, gyms, spas, even parking—whatever stuck with you.An all-day menu is served in both the antique-filled restaurant and plush English Bar, where you can also sink into a velvet couch for a stiff drink. The real star is the rooftop terrace, where, from May to September, lunch, dinner, and drinks are served surrounded by lush foliage and views from Sacre Coeur to the Eiffel Tower. Note that the restaurant is closed when the rooftop is open. Room service is also available. Bottom line: worth it, and why?You might not find the latest technologies or coolest crowd, but the atmosphere of family tradition and time-honed luxury keeps the discerning set coming back." - Sandra Ramani