

10

"With a Helen Rice–designed interior in a 19th-century building, the room feels intimate and luxurious, like dining in the dressing room of a storied house, and landing a reservation here feels like a small triumph. Service is familiar and steady, and the seasonally driven, European-inspired food is hard to improve on: toothsome, perfectly executed pasta; a slow-cooked chicken that tastes like nonna started it days ago; and ethereal uses of Lowcountry, in-season vegetables." - Stephanie Burt