"Chef Mitsuru Tamura turned 50 earlier this year, left his long-time role as the head of Michelin-starred Sushi Yasuda, and teamed up with pedigreed restaurateur Grant Reynolds to open his first and eponymous Japanese restaurant in Greenwich Village. There’s an omakase counter with eight seats, where Mitsuru runs the show every night ($250). Though if you don’t get a place at the counter, another in the intimate 30-seat dining room will more than suffice. The streamlined menu has starters like grilled edamame ($12) and crispy burdock root ($8) that set the scene nicely; and green dishes like a seaweed salad with salted plum and marinated kale with mushrooms (both $12) that beautifully accompany the mains—of which the sea bass tempura and ginger tartar ($40) was a standout. But the a la carte menu’s real winner is the “Mitsuru’s choice”: five pieces of sushi (market price) from the omakase counter, delivered to your two- or four-top. Don’t miss the wine list; ask for the sparkling sake—Japanese rice wine made effervescent by the traditional French method of creating Champagne. —Matt Ortile, associate editor"