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"Walking in used to feel like discovering a local secret, but now lines form well before opening—and it’s worth the wait. Tucked on the way to São Jorge Castle, the cozy room hums as locals and travelers dive into twists on Portuguese classics: can’t-miss bacalhau à brás, perfectly cooked polvo, and rotating dishes that on my last visit included an impressively tender beef sandwich and orange squid with a spot-on balance of salt, sweet, and acid. A recent renovation added a slightly bigger kitchen and stools to watch the action; go with friends so you can order widely, settle in, and soak up the fun, relaxed chaos—likely punctuated by a shot of the team’s homemade spirit." - Abigail Malbon