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"Occupying a shoebox space on the Lower East Side for almost a decade, this counter-only shop puts you right next to the action, with a handful of stools wrapped around the kitchen so you can watch chef Yohei Ishida expertly folding noodles into bowls; a second, larger, swankier location recently opened in Chelsea. The menu focuses on clear-soup ramen, but everything is high quality—the toppings, the other ramen bowls, the sides, and especially the gyoza in broth. The real gem is off-menu: the “’80s Shoyu,” infused with an exhilarating amount of dried fish, served only at the LES location and only when Ishida is manning the stove." - Sho Spaeth