"Heads, kidneys, tongues, and other innards define the menu at La Tasquería, a newcomer whose name is a play on the words “tasca” (pub) and “casquería” (offal shop). Once ubiquitous on working-class dinner tables across Spain—yet virtually vanished from the culinary zeitgeist today—organ meats have a new champion in Javi Estévez, whose dishes like fried lambs' ears and braised rabbit tongues with snails are creating fans out of even the most squeamish eaters." - Benjamin Kemper