"What chef/owners Tim and Lillian Lu call cuisine bourgeoise, you might call homemade haute: The food here is elegant but not precious, complex but not convoluted, and served on vintage china that underscores its charms. Little indulgences come in the form of hors d’oeuvres like smoked eel daubed with white sturgeon caviar atop a mound of kohlrabi and vol-au-vents, or puff-pastry shells, filled with lobster and celery root in vermouth-spiked cream sauce. On the heartier side, entrees balance traditional preparations with seasonal inspirations to striking effect. Skate wing is strewn with chanterelles, cherry tomatoes, and baby fennel in anchovy béarnaise on one visit, while leek-pistachio pistou and breakfast radishes dot beurre fondue–glazed rabbit leg marinated in mustard, caramelized onions, and Muscadet the next." - Ruth Tobias
