The 21 Best New Restaurants in New York City | Condé Nast Traveler
"It's hard to put a price on the feeling of walking down the gritty subway stairs into the 34th Street-Herald Square Subway station, turning away from your downtrodden would-be commuters, punching a code into the door, and disappearing into the sleek 14-seat tasting counter that is Nōksu—leaving your fellow New Yorkers blinking in confusion ("did she just...?"). But there is a price, and it's $225 for chef Dae Kim's 12-course seafood-forward tasting menu, which features surf clam with hen egg custard, and a fluke crudo with perilla and za'atar, among other things expertly arranged with tweezers. The whole squab, served with gochujang, nearly upstages the drama of the entrances. There's a range of global influences on the menu, which Kim describes as an exercise in fusion, but the wine pairing skews European (as does the distinctly French approach to sauces; it makes sense that Kim trained at Per Se). The novelty of the setting is undeniable—for seasoned fine dining lovers, it's worth the trip. —Megan Spurrell, senior editor" - CNT Editors
