"Gunmetal clouds unleashed lightning on distant silos. “Homemade Donuts,” “Get a Rootbeer,” “Free Ice Water,” “Cowboy Up”: The prairie was punctuated with hand-painted signage for Wall Drug, that infamous attraction cobbled together from an original 1931 pharmacy and a subsequent cafeteria, chapel, Westernwear store, and backyard theme park. We were headed to the town of Wall, home of Wall Drug but also the Wounded Knee museum..."