"Why book? You don’t expect to find a peaceful boutique hotel inside a former women’s prison, but the Wilmina exemplifies Berlin at its finest: a successful fusion of difficult history paired with the new-and-now. Set the scene Upon arrival, you first notice the hulking brick facade of the one-time courthouse, but push open the heavy front door and you find yourself within a secret and rather untamed garden—the hotel’s inner courtyard, prettily illuminated with twinkling lights in the evenings. Beyond that is the prison-turned-hotel itself, where the building’s thick criminal-proof walls contrast with airy features like skylit atriums brightened by Bocci lights, giving the whole scene an ethereal, serene feel. Other hotel guests tend toward mature Germans of a certain age clad in chic black, who come as couples or in groups of friends, seeking the privacy and solitude on offer here. Last but not least, the atmospheric restaurant Lovis is a destination in itself, bringing people to the neighborhood who might not otherwise venture this far west. The backstory Today’s hotel buildings, dating from 1896, originally housed a women’s prison—where female resistance fighters were held during World War I—and an adjacent courthouse. They were at the time located on the outskirts of town, but as Berlin continued to grow, around 1920 the structure became part of the city itself. It remained a prison, officially becoming the Charlottenburg Women’s Prison in 1946 and then a juvenile detention center, until it was shuttered in 1985. The buildings then sat empty—their romantically creepy environs occasionally used for music video and film shoots, such as 2008’s The Reader with Kate Winslet and Ralph Fiennes—until 2011. That’s when owners Grüntuch Ernst Architects began the derelict buildings’ transformation into a unique kind of hotel. Over the next 11 years, the architects connected multiple prison cells to form larger guest rooms and extended the high, barred cell windows downward to let in more light, as well as landscaped the gardens and roofs. In 2022, the revamp was complete, and this prison of yore reopened to the public as a fully-fledged Design Hotel. The rooms Wilmina’s 44 guest rooms have a similar minimalist look, with calming white walls and pale wood furnishings—all the better to focus on the nature both inside and out of the rooms. Most were created by combining a number of former prison cells; they’re decorated sparingly with framed pressed flowers, and on the small desk, you’ll find nature-related reading selections. Rooms come in various sizes from Cozy to Classic to Penthouse Suites, plus one Garden Loft with its own kitchenette and large living area; each features a double- or king-sized COCO-MAT bed, made of natural materials and hugely comfortable. The best rooms—though perhaps not the most atmospheric—may be the two Penthouse Suites; unlike the other cells-turned-rooms, these were newly constructed during the building renovations, so they feature enormous floor-to-ceiling windows and plenty of appealing light. Food and drink Chef Sophia Rudolph is well-known for her former Berlin restaurant project, Oh, Panama, on a hip stretch of Potsdamer Strasse near a gaggle of galleries. Her new venture, Lovis, in a spacious brick-walled covered inner courtyard, finds Rudolph cooking her brand of vegetable-forward contemporary German cuisine for an appreciative crowd. For the best sampling of her farm-fresh cuisine, try the six-course tasting menu (also available in a vegetarian version); opt for the wine pairings for an extra treat. And whether you stop for dinner or not, don’t miss the beautiful, dimly lit Lovis Bar, lined with striking unbranded bottles of liquor. It offers a selection of intriguing cocktails; I tried the forest herbs, apples, and smoke, while my dining partner had the dark chocolate, coffee, and firewood, and both were exceptional. Room rates include a fresh but minimal European-style buffet breakfast, with meats, cheeses, fruit, yogurt, and some baked goods. In warmer weather, the breakfast room opens out onto a pleasant courtyard where guests can dine. Also of note is that Wilmina has no mini bar or coffee or tea makers in the guest rooms. Instead, just head to the 24-hour honesty bar, situated in a shared kitchen space, where you can also choose from a selection of tasty snacks. The spa You won’t find a spa per se, but the 33-foot-long pool on the hotel rooftop makes a fine spot for a refreshing dip in the warmer months—and a rather less refreshing dip in the winter months, when it’s not heated “for ecological reasons.” But just do as the Germans do and cold plunge after spending some quality time sweating in the adjacent rooftop sauna—bookable by appointment, to preserve your privacy. Wilmina also has a small 24-hour gym with the basics (elliptical, bike, resistance machine) and, if you’re into Pilates, hotel guests get a 20% discount on classes at the neighboring BEYOND fitness studio, which offers both mat and reformer Pilates along with HIIT, yoga, and barre (and which I highly recommend as a former member of their indoor cycling-focused BECYCLE studio in Prenzlauer Berg!). If you’re in need of an even bigger swimming pool for laps or have a hankering for some tennis, Wilmina also has some free guest passes on-hand for the swanky nearby members-only International Club Berlin. The neighborhood/area The hotel sits on a bustling, highly urban, and very local stretch of Kantstrasse in West Berlin—technically Charlottenburg, but a part so far west that few East Berliners, myself included, and tourists have ever visited—dotted with a handful of dusty antique shops. It’s probably not a place you’d hang out often, but that makes Wilmina even more of a find: You get an authentic taste of Berlin just by coming here. That said, there aren’t many food choices nearby unless you take a lengthy walk east on Kanstrasse, where you’ll find several Asian fusion restaurants from Berlin legend The Duc Ngo (the aptly named “King of Kantstrasse”) including FunkyFisch, 893 Ryōtei, and Madame Ngo, as well as café-heavy Savignyplatz. Culture mavens will also find themselves a 20-minute walk from the renowned Deutsche Oper as well as the Schaubühne, arguably the best avant-garde theater in Berlin (and my absolute fave); though all their wonderful shows are in German, they put on English-supertitled performances at regular intervals. The nearest S-Bahn station (Charlottenburg) lies a 7-minute stroll to the east and the closest U-Bahn (Wilmerdorfer Strasse) is a 10-minute walk east, while Berlin’s main conference center, Messe Nord, is about 15 minutes west. The service Staff are there to help you if you need it, but in general, Wilmina’s service is very discrete, befitting the hushed atmosphere. There’s no dedicated concierge, but the super-friendly reception staff can assist with restaurant reservations, gym passes, directions, and the like. For families Though the hotel’s quiet vibe seems more suited to couples, Wilmina does provide cribs on request (though I only saw one guest with a baby during my stay). Some Classic rooms (with a king bed) can also be connected to Cozy rooms (with a double bed) to increase the footprint, though this is likely only an option for travelers with an older child or family member. Classic Extended rooms and Penthouses also include a sofa bed that can be used for a child or extra guest. Accessibility The hotel does have an elevator (though it can be very slow at times) and Garden View rooms that accommodate guests who use a wheelchair; these rooms include larger bathrooms with extra-wide showers. Anything left to mention? Definitely leave enough time to hang out on the property, especially when the weather’s nice. The wild courtyard gardens and enchanting rooftop are truly special places." - Liz Humphreys
