The Pig at Harlyn Bay

"Why book? It’s the latest in the litter from The Pig hotels, a collection of shabby-chic hideaways that have established themselves as some of Britain’s best places to stay. This one is also in Cornwall, the UK’s favourite summer playground, making for a peaches-and-cream perfect holiday combination. Set the scene The north coast of Cornwall already has fantastic hotels such as Watergate Bay and The Scarlet near Newquay, but they are shoehorned into built-up areas. By contrast, The Pig luxuriates in acres of fresh air, wrapped by lushly landscaped gardens. It is a meadow away from Harlyn Bay, a nostalgic hit of rock pools, rugged cliffs and rippling waves. Of course it gets busy, but the lack of souvenir stalls saves it from the claustrophobic crowds that engulf neighboring beaches. And there’s something about The Pig’s mix of flea-market chic and tongue-in-cheek charm that appeals as much to smart second-home owners – who instantly adopted this as their third – as muddy-booted walkers looking for a welcoming pit stop on the South West Coast Path; there’s always an egalitarian buzz. The backstory Robin Hutson knows hotels. He’s been general manager at Hampshire’s Chewton Glen, the grande dame of traditional country-house hotels, and chairman of Soho House, the brand behind the UK’s naughtiest boltholes. Ten years ago, he used his wide-ranging expertise to found The Pig with his wife Judy, the group’s interior designer. Their modus operandi is to rescue interesting old buildings in a sorry state of disrepair and liberally sprinkle fairy dust over them. After successes in Hampshire, Dorset and Devon, Cornwall seemed the obvious next opening but the couple were reluctant. They have a home in Padstow and, at first, didn’t want to mix business and pleasure. But the temptation was too strong--the house turned out to be a Grade II-listed mansion with medieval archways, Jacobean plasterwork, a neo-Gothic staircase and Georgian façade. Judy was so excited by its potential that within seconds of crossing the threshold she had her Farrow & Ball color chart out. Two years and one false start later – the initial 2020 launch having been scuppered by lockdown – there was a Glastonbury-like rush when reservations finally opened for August 2020. The rooms Judy likes to give each hotel a personality, but using Poldark as inspiration wouldn’t be nearly quirky enough for the Hutsons. Instead, the seductive peacefulness of the house brought to her mind the contemplative sets in the BBC adaptation of Wolf Hall. ‘I liked their calmness,’ she says. ‘The stillness Thomas Cromwell exudes, the flickering candles in the dark and his quiet presence.’ She pauses dramatically before adding, ‘Oh, and I’m a fan of Mark Rylance.’ That self-deprecating humor is a cornerstone of her winning formula. It helps the duo create a warmth that encourages the kick-back relaxation that guests so appreciate here. The design ethos translates to a warren of nook-and-cranny sitting rooms decorated in sage and slate, ox-blood leather, curiosities and ancestral portraits. They are corners where staff are never fazed by someone happily snoozing under a newspaper blanket. Winter or summer, logs as big as Popeye’s biceps smolder in the grand fireplace of the dimly lit, deep-blue map room to ensure the theatrical cosiness stays cranked up to 11. Bedrooms are sanctuaries, firmly entrenched in the signature porcine motifs: warm reclaimed wood or pastel-painted tongue-and-groove, paisley fabrics and delicate botanical prints. The 11 rooms in the main house have elegant original details (one has wonderful Venetian windows); the 15 in a slate outhouse across a courtyard have less character, but the ground-floor ones spill out onto pretty terraces. Romantics will prefer one of the four garden wagons, a more grown-up take on the shepherd’s hut, with bathrooms and decadent outdoor showers. Food and drink Food is central to the Pig experience and, of course, the culinary approach is delightfully unstuffy. The kitchen team is sufficiently confident in the quality and freshness of ingredients – either homegrown or sourced within a 25-mile radius. It is borderline madness not to have lunch at the al fresco Lobster Shed (it has a retractable roof, heaters and blankets if the weather looks nasty). It exudes care-free breeziness, with far-reaching views over the wildflower lawns to the frothy Atlantic, and comes with the stress-busting soundtrack of seagulls. Obviously, the chargrilled lobster is mouthwateringly good but ask the chef to fix you an off-menu crab rarebit. Dinner is in one of three convivial interconnecting rooms: the largest is a converted former garage (the roller door’s metal runner remains intact), festooned with terra-cotta pots stuffed with fresh herbs and oversized Kilner jars containing colorful fermented fruits. If you don’t have to raise your voice against the laughter and popping corks, the Hutsons would hang their heads in shame. Bag The Smokery where the fireplace has been upcycled into a smokehouse and there is just one table for maximum intimacy. If there are Porthilly oysters on the menu don’t even think about ordering another starter. And don’t be a snob about English wines; the Camel Valley Pinot Noir Rosé Brut in particular tastes like sunset in a glass. The area North Cornwall has plenty of fancy restaurants, but Prawn on the Lawn in Padstow gets the balance right between sophisticated seafood and laidback service. You can’t come here and not eat a pasty. The best are by Malcolm Barnecutt Bakery, which has an outpost in nearby Rock. The best cream teas are at Carnewas Tea Room at the Bedruthan Steps, which is perched along a spectacular coastal path that makes burning off those excess calories no hardship. Hawksfield is a complex of lifestyle stores outside Wadebridge that is worth a look around. For wardrobe emergencies, try Roo’s Beach near Newquay, which specializes in stylish beach-to-bar clothing. The service Staff are young and chatty. Many are surfers and on WhatsApp groups that have the latest intel on which beach has the best waves that day, so do ask them for advice. Eco effort The Pig group’s 25-mile menu keeps suppliers local, reducing food miles and packaging in the process. It also produces about 17 tons of fruit and vegetables across its sites each year and composts all garden waste. Accessibility There are two bedrooms with full access and walk-in showers. Anything left to mention? Sadly, and rather surprisingly, the hotel is not dog-friendly." - Susan D'Arcy