"This is a stools-only, silverware-in-buckets, blackboard-menu kind of joint serving seasonal small plates out of an open-kitchen vendor stand inside Paris's oldest covered market, Marché des Enfants Rouge. But what it lacks in deco refinement, it more than makes up for it on the plate. Owner Michael Grosman and chef Shunta Susuki offer variations on dishes including a ceviche, a soup of the moment, and a few other "regulars" such as oysters and a selection of finely sliced charcuterie. Expect heartier fare, too, like crispy fish croquettes with a red pepper dipping sauce, grilled octopus smothered in chimichurri, and a perfectly pink skirt steak served with creamy mashed potatoes and greens. In general, the prices are high for the setting, but that's part of the appeal: high-class, neo-bistro cuisine in a rough-and-tumble joint." - Lindsey Tramuta, Sara Lieberman
